Post 1 of 8
A RIVER OF TIME
Fargo, Ga to Big Shoals
(Low water paddle)
10 Days on the Suwannee River, Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico – 225 miles
Paddling the Suwannee River had been on my mind for quite a while; an inkling of a thought growing into a small tilt and then finally tangible movement. I wanted to paddle the complete Suwannee from Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico. The kid inside of me wanted to follow the creek as it becomes a river, maybe the trek would allow a better understanding of the changes surrounding the both of us along the way.
As I threw out an offer for any to join up I also met-up with a local paddle group whom had planned a weekend ‘social’ trip – a great opportunity to grasp the logistics, shuttling, and intricacies of the Suwannee. The Holton Creek weekend happened in February, I was planning an early April run at the river – Gordy, a friend (and brother-in law’s brother) from Delaware quickly signed on for the paddle, awesome.
Gordy drove down from Delaware and we proceeded to The Suwanee River State Park where we camped on Sunday, the next day (Monday) we would take the shuttle from The Suwannee Outpost to Fargo, Ga – from Fargo it would be 221 river-miles to the Gulf, via the Suwannee. There are other outfitters available but the Suwannee Outpost seemed the most convenient (our vehicles would be riverside and secure at the one-third mark, an advantage if restocking or adjustments were needed).
Fargo, Ga. – DAY ONE, (Monday) – 221rm to 203 river mile = 18 work miles (10-days planned)
The lowest recommended paddle depth for this section of the river is a 51-foot reading at White Springs, on this date it was low-water 50.4 – a deterrent?, – naaa, too many things in motion, us being the largest factor. It was a late 10 am drop off and start from the Highway-41 bridge in Fargo – a handshake, and Gordy and I were off.
A later high water paddle at 60.3 ft – same area/distance.
Here the little creek 12 miles out of the Okefenokee Swamp really wasn’t much, but it was full of character – both natural and human, which on this date we found naturally stoic. The shorelines were weathered and the ‘line’ of the river randomly altered, everything about the Suwannee was interesting – it remained that way the entire paddle to the Gulf (at Suwannee, Fl), cool.
With the White Springs reading at 50,’ the Georgia section of the Suwannee shows all the signs of rapid fluctuation – a ravaged and beaten shoreline. On this date we saw it totally placid and seemingly dead-still – several times through the day we commented about the ‘peaceful nature’ of it all.
There were the anticipated areas of shoaling (movement of sand creating sand-bars or shallow water), and places between the slow water where stepping-out to cross or a simple hand-shove (low water) was necessary – not bad, just “part of it.”
The gnarly tree roots were ever-present, the natural rebellion of trees vs the elements to survive creates a myriad of character. There were the occasions where an aged tree had lost the battle and crashed into the creek. There were also reminders of the once vibrant era of nearby Ga highway-41 – where an occasional dated tire (50’s/60’s) peeked from the shoreline; fixture’s – not so much ‘trash,’ but adjusted within the setting as ‘relic’s’ to contemplate.
There were the kingfishers darting about, an Osprey (which I think remained with us the entire trip) continually working far ahead in search of prey that sensed our movements. Like the Current River trip, I’m starting to believe that its an ‘opportunity’ that these birds use in catching prey ahead from our movement.
And there was the almighty ‘peace,’ surrounded.
We paddled until about five before setting up camp high on river-left – near the Fla/Ga state line. Finishing the last half of our Subway sandwiches for supper and zzzzzzzz by seven, only the Owls stirred after that.
The first day had been overcast and misty – ‘just another part’ that anyone has to anticipate dampness when making a multi-day paddle. Periods of lite rain arrived during the night.
Facebook Post – “Fargo to Ga/Fla line, late start, 16 miles – low water, getting lower, Overcast day with mist, kinda nice – felt like it was 80. Gnarley trees, owls, Osprey’s. Camped on suwannee, day 1 done, using battery power to post – alls good”
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DAY 2 (Tuesday)- 203 rm to @180 rm = 23 ‘easier’ river miles
For the most part the lite rain passed through the night – so we packed damp gear. It was insta-breakfast meals (not bad), and some ‘rough’ river-jolt (coffee). Chewing on a few grinds we were bac on the water by 8a.
The creek now resembled a larger stream, there were longer and deeper sections of ‘slow-water’ and stepping out for shoaling was less frequent. There were also occasional areas of rock shoaling where ‘picking a line‘ was necessary. At the 50.4 ft water mark, locating the ‘right line’ (decision-making) through these shoals became a game. At the same time – each narrowed current provided a simple and welcomed ride.
The bubbles (above) showing were from the water flowing over the porous rocks in combination with the tannic acid (natural coloring from the leaves, vegetation) composition of the water – not from any unwanted crap in the water.
In retrospect the Suwannee’s water had a ‘quality’ feel to it all the way to the Gulf.
Around 11 am we made the Hwy-6 bridge, an optional shuttle starting point for many paddlers from Live-Oak.
Around three pm we made the Cone Bridge Landing; interesting thing here was ‘as the crows fly’ the area between Cone Bridge Landing and Hwy-6 was 5 miles, but via river it had been 9 river miles.. still alot less deviated than the Mississippi. Just a note for this section; in between is ‘limp-dick’ bend, no kidding that’s the real name -if/when you look at the aerial view of this section – well, you figure it out.
The images within the trees along the river are incredible also, easily leaving room for similar landmark namesakes….
Our paddle rate was in the neighborhood of 2.5 mph, a comfortable rate – this would increase slightly downriver, but not by much.
This was not a trip to ‘paddle’ the Suwannee; it was a trip to ‘enjoy’ the Suwannee – while simply paddling it.
Not a bad day on the Suwannee – even though it was overcast with lite rain – the underlying current gave it a ‘soft’ comfortable ride. It was a fine day in ‘the lawn chair‘ as our-buddy the Osprey remained diligently working the waters ahead.
(“my vessel is as comfortable as any ‘lawn-chair’ that I’ve ever sat in.” tgh)
We passed-up on a sandbar in the middle a few miles back and regretted it; not so many miles later we stopped near a private hunting camps boat ramp (@180 rm) – mosquitoes were present (but not a factor in the tent). With water levels a little higher I’m sure the camp-site on the Big-Shoals portage would have been achieved, but for this night; this ‘was-what-it-was’ – just a “part of it.”
Another night of movement in the woods and owls courting throughout the night; there were a few flashes of lightning crossing the sky.
Sleep was fleeting; the ‘pollen-lines’ that I had noticed earlier along the river haunted me. sinus stuff.
Still, mornings come – again up to Gordy’s boiling water, insta-food, and coffee – a ‘wet pack and damp start to day-3.
Next Day;
- Day 3 Big Shoals to Woods Ferry River Camp (159rm)
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more information this link; SUWANNEE RIVER MILEAGE INFORMATION, TRIP IDEAS
Suwannee River Mile References
Note; the Suwannee river’s mile references are correct – yet there are no physical markers (signs) along the river to help with ‘exact’ orientation. Markers on any river are not absolutely necessary but after a career of emergency service – having ‘marks’ along the way seems prudent – and, just maybe I was a little spoiled from 1800 miles of the Mississippi River where those ‘benchmarks’ provided some entertainment on the long hot days. The Current river is another frequented river which could benefit with certain signage and benchmark’s.
As for river-speed, just estimate a casual paddling rate of 2.5 to 3 mph (a solid mph greater with high water)
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240.o The Okefenokee Swamp – a tricky section with several short portages
221.0 Hwy 41 at Fargo, Ga from here it’s a nine day paddle to the Gulf. Check the water table reading at White Springs; below 52 feet (less water) = more paddle 53 to 61′ reading (more water) = nice ride, fluid paddle
206 Georgia/Fla line (night-1 from Fargo, wilderness camp)
202.0 – Roline Ramp
197.7 – Turner Bridge ramp
195.7 Highway-6; some start here, three days two nights to SR Outpost – Big Shoals portage ahead
185 – ‘Limpdick’ bend
186.5 – Cone Bridge ramp
180 (our night 2 from Fargo, wilderness camp) – sandbar in river, or high water will get you to Big Shoals
177.1 Big Shoals State Park – to right
177.5 Big Shoals – to left, portage, signs, campsite – Fla’s only natural class III rapid – N 30 21.19, W 82 41.24
171 Highway-41 at White Springs; Great starting point for 2-day one night paddle to SR Outpost, ‘playful section’
168.3 Hwy 135 Stephen Foster State Park White Springs – Hub; Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities.
163.2 – Interstate 75 – Blue Sink Launch/ramp (night 3 from Fargo – Woods Ferry camp)
159.3 Woods Ferry River Camp – River Camps are located a day’s paddle between hubs. Accessible only from the river, the camps provide covered camping platforms, primitive camping and restrooms with hot showers – reservations; (800) 868 – 9914
158.0 – Woods Ferry Launch
150.0 – Suwannee Springs launch
148.5 Good starting point to Gulf or shorter paddles. Suwannee River Outfitter at rear of Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park – place to leave vehicle. Hub – Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities. (GPS – 2461 95th Dr, Live Oak, FL)
Our canoe start – Live Oak to Gulf – Spirit of the Suwannee Music Park ramp (eight days to the Gulf)
Nearby hotel (I-75, exit 439) or Suwannee River State Park. The Suwanee River Outpost – shortest access to Music Park (I-75 exit 451). Easy, no hurry ‘first’ 10 mile ‘shake-down’ day with 2-mile paddle upriver to Suwannee Springs before heading downriver to Holton Creek River Camp for the night (very easy day)
140.9 Holton Creek River Camp FREE to hikers and paddlers
River Camps are located a day’s paddle between hubs. Accessible only from the river, the camps provide covered camping platforms, primitive camping and restrooms with hot showers – reservations; (800) 868 – 9914
Night 1 from Live Oak, (night 4 from Fargo) On the river by 830, 20+ mile paddle/day. A couple light shoals below SR State Park, neat Geological layers along shore, exposed fossils – Stay at SR State park or Dowling Park river camp (it’s all “candy” after that)
135.6 Shelley Run (night camp option – private)
135.4 ALAPIA RIVER Gibson Park ramp
130.4 – BRIDGE – Road 141 ramp
127.7 Suwannee River State Park, camping/hot showers – fee. (Hub) Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities.
127.8 Withlacoochee River
113.0 Dowling Park River Camp N 30 14.81, W 83 14.87
River Camps are located a day’s paddle between hubs. Accessible only from the river, the camps provide covered camping platforms, primitive camping and restrooms with hot showers – reservations; (800) 868 – 9914
Day-3 from Live Oak (Wednesday), 29-mile paddle/day with stay at Adams Tract, or option of easier 19-mile Paddle day staying at Peacock Slough.- neat Springs along the way, laid back paddle rate – crystal clear springs, nice area.
106.5 – Charles Spring ramp
103.3 Lafayette Blue Springs State Park (Hub) Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities.
97.4 – Telford Springs ramp
95.8 Peacock Slough river camp; River Camps are located a day’s paddle between hubs. Accessible only from the river, the camps provide covered camping platforms, primitive camping and restrooms with hot showers – reservations; (800) 868 – 9914 (Night 3 from Live Oak)
Day-4 from Live Oak, More Springs, City-restaurant food ahead in Branford, paddle rate determines stop for the night with the Santa-Fe river as an Objective – Ivy Park at Branford has primitive/tent camp area – no showers
85.5 Adams Tract River Camp; River Camps are located a day’s paddle between hubs. Accessible only from the river, the camps provide covered camping platforms, primitive camping and restrooms with hot showers – reservations; (800) 868 – 9914 (night 6 from Fargo)
82.0 – Ruth Springs ramp
– Troy Springs – Little River Springs
76 Highway 247 at Branford, Fl (just before – easy walk up behind the old train depot – park is just after)
76 Ivey Memorial Park/ramp – Branford ; (Night 4 camp from Live Oak, primitive camp with land-food)
65.5 SANTA FE RIVER RIVER (Ichetucknee Springs) beautiful beach to camp on
56.6 Highway 340 /ramp – FOOD/COLD BEVERAGE STORE at top of ramp Rocky Bluff Store
55 Gornto Spring County Park ; Night 6 from live Oak, primitive camp at Park, fee – cold shower – (this place can be a ‘zoo’ on the weekends (‘locals’))
43.1 Hart Spring County Park /ramp N 29 40.46, W 82 57.26
35.8 Highway 98 Suwannee Gables Ramp
34.2 Fanning Springs State Park Camping, cold-water showers – good food across street (Hub) Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities.
(Night 6 from Live Oak, night 8 from Fargo)
25.1 Manatee Springs State Park; camping, but sites are a long way from ramp. Canoe/kayak friendly (paddle in) April 1 to Nov 1 N 29 29.34, W 82 58.67
22.7 – Yellow Jacket Ramp – campground
16.8 – Fowlers Bluff Ramp primitive camp at Treasure Cove restaurant, land-food, live music, cold beverage. natural-water (garden-hose) shower (Day 7 camp from Live Oak)
Day-8 to Suwannee, the town -expect ‘no-see-ums’ (flyin teeth)
3.9 Anderson Landing River Camp Camping (room or tent – no credit cards), hot-water showers, good food walking distance (Hub) Hubs are towns or parks ‘ A wide range of goods and services are provided to meet visitors’ needs. Visitors can enjoy special events, shopping and other activities. (Day 8 from Live Oak, Day 9 from Fargo)
(GPS – 18 SE 225 St, Old Town, FL)
Note; Live Oak to the Gulf trip with ‘green’ canoeists limited mileage to twenty a day – kayaks alone may average 25 to thirty miles a day – but hey, sometimes its good to slow down and appreciate the setting…..
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PAST TRIP OVERVIEWS
Fargo to the Gulf – kayak (225 miles) High water
- Post 1 of 3 – Days 1 – 4, Fargo to Dowling Park river camp
- Post 2 of 3 – Days 5 – 8, Dowling Park river camp to Gornto Park
- Post 3 of 3 – Days 9 – 11, Gornto Park to Suwannee, Fl (a favorite post)
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Live Oak to the Gulf – canoe (150 mile)
Suwannee River Grin – 4 posts
- Day 1 – Live Oak to Shelley Run (rm 148 to 135) 13 mi
- Day 2 – Shelley Run to Dowling Park River Camp – rm (135 to 113) 22 mi
- Day 3 – Dowling Park to Peacock Slough River Camp (rm 113 to 95) 18 mi
- Day 4 – Peacock Slough to Ivy Park in Branford (rm 95 to 76) 19 mi
- Day 5 – Ivy Park to Gornto Springs Park (rm 76 to 55) 19 mi
- Day 6 – Gornto Springs to Fanning Springs State Park (rm 55 to 34) 21 mi
- Day 7 – Fanning Springs to Fowlers Bluff (rm 34 to 16) 22 mi
- Day 8 – Fowlers Bluff to Anderson River Camp in Suwannee, 16 mi
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Fargo to the Gulf – kayak (225 miles) Low water
A River of Time – 8 posts
- Days 1 and 2 Fargo Ga, to riverside camp to just above Big Shoals (178rm)
- Day 3 Big Shoals to Woods Ferry River Camp (159rm)
- Days 4 and 5 – Woods Ferry to riverside camp (136rm) to Dowling Park River Camp (113 rm)
- Day 6 – to Adams Tract River Camp (85 rm)
- Day 7 – to riverside (56rm) just above Gornto Springs (56rm)
- Day 8 – to Fanning Springs (34 rm)
- Day 9 – to Anderson River Camp
- Day 10 – Suwannee, Fl (03rm, Gulf)
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Aug 02, 2011 @ 19:24:23
man I love your pictures and trip report, I would love to make that trip
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Sep 17, 2014 @ 00:02:11
THANKS SO MUCH for all the info. I once canoed the Suwannee with a group of kids my age, I was about 14 then. We did about 28 days I’m pretty sure, but we stopped at all the springs and swam, took the tour on Suwannee River history, etc. I’m not sure where we began or ended the river, but we camped on the banks, ate dehydrated eggs n stuff for breakfast and I remember being so excited for our ‘layover’ day (great food and restocking of the not-so-great foods). We cooked campfire meals, washed our dishes, pots & pans (always rub Dawn* dish soap on outside of campfire pans for easy clean up: I will NEVER forget what a difference THAT made!!) We had a blast, and got great exercise too! We also learned to work together as a group, a great value I treasure still! We also did the Ocoee River in Georgia which is breathtaking!! We hiked the Florida Trail (backpacking) for 18 days too! I sure miss those days!! What FUN I HAD!! I’m REALLY hoping to be able to talk my kids, ages 21 & 25 to go with me on a canoe trip sometime soon! So Exciting!! And GREAT FAMILY bonding time, enjoying nature’s peace and quiet while getting a tan 😀 Your blog is VERY informative and the pictures are GREAT!! Thanks again!
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Sep 17, 2014 @ 07:16:30
Thanks Kelly, The Suwannee is a positive place for young folks to orient in this sometimes crazy world, sounds like it was good for/to you. Memories. I appreciate the comment, nice to hear.
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Oct 04, 2014 @ 07:21:26
Mr. Haynie … Thank you so very, very much for sharing your experiences on the Suwannee River. MY wife and have have been planning a Suwannee trip for about a year now and your information has been INVALUABLE! We launch on Oct 24, 2014 from Fargo and will take ten days to travel downstream to Fanning Springs. We’ll camp riverside for 4 nights and then have a real bed and shower at Suwannee River State Park, where we have a cabin reserved for one night. We’ll then have 4 more nights camping riverside and end our trip in another cabin at Fanning Springs State Park. We’re hoping to average about 19 miles per day and your information has helped me feel very confident that is very doable. Again … Thank You So Much … Dennis Yarbrough
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Oct 05, 2014 @ 16:04:01
Thanks Dennis, that means alot. Enjoy a great paddle, one of the better times of the year to be on the Suwannee. Peace.
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Oct 23, 2014 @ 23:31:35
Love the photos and stories. In CA now, but grew up in Jacksonville and canoed the Suwanee and Okefenokee many times. First time was in 1972 when I was 15 yrs old, a 5-day trip that Camp Montgomery (Presbyterian Churches) offered every year. Canoeing the Suwanee was already popular then. We ran into a large Boy Scout Troop from Miami several times. It is nice to see how the river has become more organized and appreciated. Back then, many locals didn’t appreciate us city folk on their river. It appears that tourism has benefited most of those small towns.
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Oct 24, 2014 @ 08:27:39
Thanks Bill, I remember the river from those years also (but had too much going on to climb in) – you were lucky to experience it. Its still the same in many ways so it will be waiting for you – just as it was – when you’re ready to cross that ‘little circle’ of a lifetime once again. Hope all is well in Ca, neat places there too. appreciate your comment.
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Feb 06, 2015 @ 11:48:39
Could you give me a rough idea of the northernmost point at which to start paddling a row boat? It has a draft of 5-7″ and wingspan (oars) of about 18′. I appreciate your comments.
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Feb 06, 2015 @ 11:51:11
Highway 41 bridge at white springs
Sent from my iPhone
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Jan 18, 2016 @ 09:44:10
can anybody tell me how much food would you take an water or how to figure that I would like to take the trip
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Jan 18, 2016 @ 10:01:06
A gallon of water on-hand is plenty, you can refresh or refill at any of the river camps along the way. As for food, https://backshortly.wordpress.com/boating/suwanee-river-agenda/ have a fine paddle…
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Jan 18, 2016 @ 14:01:28
thanks we are taking a 14 foot canoe with a three and a half horse motor on the back of it and see how far we can get
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Jan 18, 2016 @ 14:09:58
Kayak, a gallon of water – canoe; heck you can take a cooler with ice – https://backshortly.wordpress.com/2012/04/18/the-suwannee-live-oak-to-dowling-park-river-camp/ – have a great time.
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Jul 24, 2016 @ 04:44:49
My son (27) and I are doing this trip a few days from now. We’ve done a lot of paddling and primitive camping around Florida and we are aware of the heat issue this time of the year. I paddled the Suwannee a few weeks ago and camped high off a steep bank just to check out the current (or lack thereof) and found it to be peaceful enough to do the 9-10 day trip. MY ONLY CONCERN (and again, I have done a lot of Florida river paddling) is alligator. Normally, I don’t give these guys a thought except to give them their space. I am concerned because the only one I saw that day for 13 miles (middle section), he was perched up on a sand bar. We are planning on camping along the river ON SAND BARS. Again, I am good with alligator but I have never tried hanging out for extended periods of time and then sleeping where they eat. Anything you can recommend to alleviate my concern?
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Jul 24, 2016 @ 20:03:17
Joe;
Gators stories are part of the adventure and as you are aware they will take every measure to avoid humans. They sun on the banks during the day and for the most part sleep in the water at night. I’ve discussed this with other paddlers we all agreed that alligators are naturally afraid of the sound of a human snoring – so we went down with the sun and rose with the first light to paddle again, all was good. The owls are neat and will let you know if anything is stirring about your camp. Landings are along the way too. Happy for you guys, its a great paddle, great memories; the heat will be your biggest challenge (but a long-sleeved fishing shirt (frequently wet) will be the best a/c on the river).
Don’t step on one, and don’t call their mom a hand bag – you’ll be fine.
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Aug 11, 2016 @ 17:20:37
I want to do this paddle someday–I have done extensive paddling in the Okefenokee.
http://www.sagecoveredhills.blogspot.com
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Aug 12, 2016 @ 16:14:13
NIce, then the Suwannee will be a ‘piece of cake’ for you….
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Aug 24, 2016 @ 10:44:03
Wow Mr. Haynie, What an abundance of information you have memorialized for us here.
One small question I have: In your experience, have you seen or know about many paddlers pulling out and hanging a hammock (with bug net 🙂 ) anywhere along the Suwannee as long as it’s public land? I know there are campsites etc along the river. Unfortunately, I love to paddle till I get tired and then want to set up a hammock without having to be concerned about scheduling / keeping a reservation somewhere. I’m pretty self-reliant and don;t need a lot of comforts.
Not sure if my question makes sense to you.
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Aug 24, 2016 @ 10:58:30
Makes alot of sense Dennis, and I feel much the same way about feeling handcuffed by a reservation. The river camps are there for your convenience – if they just happen to be in the right place at the right time, use one – or better yet just stop for a hot shower. After my first trip down the Suwannee I carried a hammock like yours but never used it – stopping most anywhere when tired is completely doable…… Its your trip, do it your way...
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Sep 27, 2016 @ 09:08:37
on 24AUG2016, you left a reply to my hammock question (Dennis Lindsey) and I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for your time. I asked the hammock question only because I am aware that there are private lands along the Suwannee and puling out on private land except in an emergency is not the best idea. You are busy so no need to respond to this. Just know that I appreciate you posting your Suwannee River trips. Excellent tutorials.
V/R,
Dennis
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Feb 21, 2017 @ 13:28:40
Dear Mr. Haynie, Where did you obtain your trip maps? I appreciate the guidance. On the water in April 2017 for MY own trip.
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Feb 21, 2017 @ 14:00:55
Dennis, check another post of mine – https://backshortly.wordpress.com/boating/suwanee-river-agenda/ – you will find two links to the upper and lower Suwannee maps – these were made available by the Suwannee River folks. April is the best time in my opinion for a Suwannee trip, good choice – I’m considering another about that time myself. Hope to see you out there
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Mar 22, 2017 @ 18:06:11
Just wrapped up our trip from the Suwannee Sill to HWY 41 at White Springs. It was fantastic! We are planning to start there next time and do another 3rd or so.
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Mar 22, 2017 @ 18:54:27
That’s great Jay, was the bright orange sock hat still on the Big Shoals portage point? We were through several weeks back. Hope you enjoy it all….. thanks for your interest
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Jul 23, 2018 @ 14:06:49
Great info , sir! thanks for answering the q’s re: food/water quantities. Besides Suwannee town being cash only, What can I expect the overall (full 225miles) , albeit frugal cost of this trip to run me (sans outfitter fee)? Thanks!
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Jul 23, 2018 @ 15:11:49
I think less than 300 bucks. Food and shuttle are the only expenses that come to mind..
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