Life at 60, (mph)

Lake Julian – NC

300 acres

Water Clarity – 6

Natural Quality – 5+

(GPS; 403 Overlook road extension, Asheville, NC)

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After a two and a half hour paddle, I noticed AFD Engine and Ladder 4  stationary at a nearby food establishment – also curious about the eatery I also stopped – they were just finishing their meal.  In conversation I was almost embarrassed to say that I had just paddled (and now writing about) Lake Julian, nothing special about it.  That kinda sums up how I felt about the lake when I put in earlier, – wasn’t really excited about it, but there I was..

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As a ‘local’ the past thirty years and having this body of water within our emergency response area, I have known of Lake Julian for a long time – yet have only been ON her waters a few times; each visit was in the mindset of rescue preparedness and business – not today, a ‘feet-up’ mindset.

Carolina Power/Progress Energy is the reason for this lake – the waters are necessary for the power plant to function (what the water does) providing the area electricity.

Lake Julian Park is located along Long Shoals rd (Exit 37, I-26) on the South side of Asheville, NC. – the lake is less than 300 acres – wading and/or swimming is prohibited; but sailing, electric motors, or paddling is fine. There is a small fee.

There are likely several reasons for the ‘no’ swimming; one – the primary purpose for this water is for power plant operations, through that process the water temperature of the lake is elevated (more so in the summer) creating ripe conditions for the duck and goose crap to become a potential health risk to swimmers.  Two – there is one area of public access in the lake with a current which could surprise a swimmer, over the past thirty years there have been several drownings at the lake.  Wading and swimming on/in the waters is not allowed.

(‘Festival of Lights’ display each December)

It is what it is; the kayak was on the roof and I was oozing with idle time – four bucks (launch fee) and moments later I was paddling the shoreline of West Julian – I guess it’s about perspective – a little Lake in South Asheville.

In the fall (and especially during the winter) there is a period in the mornings when the cool mountain air and the warm water from the plant clash, the vapor rises and lingers like the ghostly mist of a creepy Halloween cemetery (“Here lies Jim, said he could swim”).  The air was warming quickly, so the usually heavy fog dissipated rapidly, it was nice to slip up on some morning wildlife – and then a barn appeared through of the vapor.

The spillway or West end of Julian is a pretty ‘unremarkable’ part of the lake, a dry spillway along with the noise pollution of the power plant – yet it was simply a part of the shoreline that I wanted to paddle first (and hope to remember the lake from it’s ‘other’ more wooded areas).

– granted there were a few coves that had a natural ‘feel’ to them – fewer without a structure in view.

I recalled the railroad trestle from my first visit here years prior, this was the first that I had seen of it since.  I imagined the long line of coal cars providing fossil fuel to the plant on it, – the land part of it also acts as a barrier for the ‘cooling’ pond; prior to returning into the body of the lake (current area).

Today a temporary stable to ‘traveller.’

The little lake has it’s ‘corners’…

even though there always seems to be power lines in the view; here at the lower Park off of Hwy 25 is where that cooling pond area returns to the lake.  This is the lakes only current and an area of potential peril for swimmers…  lots of tangled fishing line about too.

I think I saw four or five blue heron, there was something about the warm water they liked.  I had also noticed the difference in the kayak – it was kinda missing that ‘cool’ bottom feel, and had a warm feel in the cockpit first thing in the morning – noticeably different than upon other waters, such as Lake Tahoe a last month.

Wild wings Cafe now overlooks this end of the lake (awesome location/view); if they had a dock I think I might just ‘paddle right up’ for a frosty one.

The traffic along Long Shoals rd added the character that I hadn’t missed, “doggone people“…  then a simple paddle along the shore and back towards the Park.

Also at Lake Julian Park is a small boat club, some rental kayaks, and a series of  competition style ‘row’ boats – signs that folks do get some quality use from this lake.

Right back around the park and near the ‘Ranger’s station.

and right back onto a captive audience, no – I didn’t feed them.

– and this is why, ‘land-mines‘ on the dock.  Don’t think all the docks were like this because they were not – there was a long water-hose nearby for washing it all off – leaving me to ponder, into what?

I actually had a decent paddle on Lake Julian, it was short, sweet, and simple – not too ‘wild’ but I did find a few fleeting moment’s of peace out there.  It was the first day of November and the leaves were mostly down or past ‘peak color.’

Still, after paddling so many other lakes recently – I had to remind myself that the primary purpose of this Lake is to support the power station, which in-turn supplies the areas power demands.  It’s a privilege to have such an ‘island’ of environmental reflection within this fast-paced community for the general public to escape and enjoy a picnic with the kids – or to paddle along her shorelines.  I appreciate the time on her water, it was a simple paddle, proximate, and well worth the four bucks.

For reasons of my own, I’d simply like to think of Julian as – Adios Lake.

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other places to paddle;

The Gunnison River – Delta to Whitewater, Co

Water Clarity – 5+

Natural Quality – 8+

(VGPS – 530 Gunnison River Dr, Delta, CO)

Class I and II

35 Miler

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Thanks to Eric and the ‘Western Paddlers’ group for allowing me to tag along with them on the Gunnison –  it wasn’t long at the landing before I recognized the folks as experienced paddlers, they seemed comfortable and prepared with for any conditions that they might encounter on Colorado water.

We met at Confluence Park in Delta on Saturday morning for a 35 mile overnight paddle, I really wasn’t sure what I was getting into but as long as it involved paddling and water I was ready for the challenge. Not sure what these seemingly more experienced paddlers thought with this open cockpit eastern logic sitting along side – but I suppose that it was along the lines of  ‘cheap entertainment’ (an ‘expendable’) – if that indeed was my purpose – I felt that the opportunity was certainly worth any ‘ribbing’ that might arise.

To the left in the picture above is Jerry, Eric’s Dad and a champion paddler, Jerry was full of valuable information and tips for us all – plus he was our main shuttle for the vehicles – as the weekend progressed and through simple conversation with Eric it was easy to understand the positive influence that he has provided his son.

All ‘revved up’ with morning coffee, the am start was simple – soon we had settled into the best part of why we were there – simply paddlin, ridin the river and taking it all in.

The other paddlers were Paul, a CEO and long-time paddler that continues to enjoy the ‘get-away’ of it all – he knew the river well through prior travels and had also paddled the Current River, one of my favorites.

Mat, whom I observed during the entire paddle handle his canoe much as I imagined a ‘trapper’ of a hundred years ago would have.  Both canoeists Paul and Mat were independent and quite adept with their skills, they were very much at ease on the water.  I was impressed, the manner in which they manged those vessels convinced me that canoes could be as maneuverable and agile as any kayak.

In her kayak and also very comfortable and adept on the river was Pam, always upbeat and full of conversation which helped shorten some of the river stretches – she made it look effortless.

– and then there was Eric, very involved with ‘paddlin’ and always helping folks get the most out of their paddling technique.  He also has many other interests one being petroglyphs and sharing this primitive rock-art of record keeping with other paddlers.  Aside from those interests Eric instructs paddling while sharing his knowledge of places to paddle with others.  Eric can be found at Western Paddlers, or Canoe Colorado, great information (and patience).

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Of course there was me and ‘traveller‘ bringing up the rear and feeling just a little out of place with these ‘peers,’ but I was on the water too – common ground.  I was happy to contribute so I did leave Eric with a few pictures that he will be able to utilize in his paddlin classes (for improving student skills).  Over the years I have provided many examples for others to learn from (I didn’t say they were good) – my contribution.

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In breakfast conversation I think we agreed that one of the neat things about paddlin was the ability to ‘slip up‘ on wildlife, so after passing these cows at water’s edge (they wouldn’t budge for a train), I just had to pun the so-called wildlife that we had just ‘slipped up’ on.  During the weekend I did see a couple of hawks, abundant heron, a beaver, an Owl, and some big-horn tracks….(and the cattle).

Plenty of interesting things to ponder along the way, in one conversation it was brought to light the Tamarisk plant – which was an invasive species of plant that had taken hold along the Gunnison shores, an ongoing effort to re-establish the Cottonwood trees was in progress.

But the day was about other things too, where I had ran the same 35 mile distance on the Current River a month earlier in one day (without trying), now I was learning how to stop and enjoy more along the way.

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This was all part of the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area – and the next stop was for lunch where Jerry joined us.  We took a walk and ogled a few petroglyphs along this canyon wall.

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A little climbing was involved, but there were unmolested petroglyphs to be found, interesting stuff.

Soon we were back on the water, doing what brought us together in the first place,….

Paddlin.  I think it was just after this smaller set of rapids that I provided Eric some of his best ‘improvement’ shots, me without a ‘skirt’ going through the ‘Hail-Mary’ rapids – no, I didn’t flip but I did come out with a half a tub of water…..

I think later Pam described the scenery the best, ‘fascinating.’

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And that word stuck – to see the ‘mechanic’s’ of change and how these mountains continue to evolve through years of weather and climate change was simply fascinating… I didn’t mind ‘bringin up the rear,’ I was fascinated by the landscape.

We stopped to camp for the night at the Dominguez Canyon wilderness area, a ‘well-used’ camping spot for the many seasonal paddlers, but only us on this night.

It really was a beautiful canyon, more of which I would see the following morning.

The evening it was full of simple conversation and sharing a few smiles.  Somewhere in it all I was asked if I had read the Western Paddler rules? “no” – but I guess I hadn’t broken any yet because I still remained among them..(still plenty of time I thought).

Actually in more discussion we talked in general terms of what many paddlers expect from a ‘group adventure,’ and I liked what I heard – this was not an ‘outfitter,’ but a group of paddlers.  A group of experienced paddlers do not want to ‘hold others back’ or to burden others experience with their personal or paddling issues – so independence is stressed (and expected) – everyone manages their own world, no ‘sheep.’

This subject of course did not come up because of anything I lacked, I was prepared (with exception of a ‘skirt’ for the kayak) – I even had my own ‘cranberry drink prepared (which they likely recognized after my ‘oh-crap‘ story’).

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I have been a lone paddler for the most part, mostly because I can paddle when others can’t – to be included with this group of paddlers was a good experience,  fun conversation and early to bed.

The next morning everyone broke camp and kayaks were readied without a word, from there we took a mile walk up the canyon.

It had all the ingredients and colors (except forest green).

and more petroglyphs, some a mere hundred years or younger and possibly peyote inspired (which I stepped-up and tried my early 70’s interpretations to).

I found it all interesting, the petroglyphs, the abundance quartz in the rock, the older and improvised habitats among the rocks,

and this old (but not ancient) holding pen preserved through isolation from another period of our western history – folks making do.

traveller

with a little time we got back to the river….

and plenty more interesting landscape along the way.

and in too short of a time, Whitewater landing came to view.

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It was a great paddle with these folks, comfortable and educational.  Even though we live in different areas of the country we found ourselves sharing time through the simple act of paddlin.  Our jobs and back grounds differ, yet somewhere inside we found similarities within the respect that each held of our natural surroundings.  We each valued nature, but did not wish to intrude – just wanted to spend some time with her.

Paddling is a ‘value’ that we share, either alone – or as part of a group..

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On a side note – when I returned to Pagosa Springs the grandkids had prepared a special glyph for me;

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Echo Lake, Ca. (near S Lake Tahoe)

Water Clarity – 10

Natural Quality – 9

Perception – Weekday, fall

(VGPS – 9900 Echo Lakes Rd, Echo Lake, CA)

Elevation – @ 7400′

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In recent conversation with a native of the Tahoe area (Alicia and Ron), Alicia helped to narrow my visit objectives to two; Echo Lake and Lake Tahoe (Emerald Bay).  Echo Lake would be a smaller paddle with a little more altitude than Tahoe.  Ron was quick to mention the ‘freshness’ of water in the lake (s) also.

Oakland (wife to airport) was behind me and it was good to make it through Sacramento before the morning traffic became a buzz.  The drive up hwy 50 began as daylight was breaking – the closer to Tahoe the nicer Hwy 50 became – lots of old stand pines in boulder-like settings.

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It was a comfortable ride in my vehicle, but when I stepped out to check this road-art gremlin along the roadside – the ‘freshness of everything was apparent.  I had just listened to the weather report for 100 miles away – 90 degrees was the report, now my heater is on – and I see frost!….  With chacos on there was now a need for socks and my glasses (because everything looked so neat)…..

My only objective for this date was to simply make it to South Lake Tahoe and find a place to rest-up, before finding two full days of paddlin (weather permitting) in the area..

By chance the ‘Echo Lake’ sign appeared just before Tahoe so I made the cut to take a quick look.  Highway 50 was really pretty as the sun rose, besides the old-stand pines there was a beautiful mountain stream running along side – made several stops.

The landing at Echo Chalet was vacated with the exception of a couple dock workers, it was early October and I suppose the season was over here.  The workers gave me a quick overview of the lake and welcomed me to paddle it – so I did.

Note; an aquatic invasive species inspection is currently required of your vessel at their gate (I carry Ivory dish detergent (biodegradable )and brush ‘Traveller’ down between lakes).

The lake was lowered for the winter and the rocky setting ‘stood-out’ for me, kinda like lake Glenville but sand was rare here, very little..  The construction methods of the pilings were unusual (more later) and then I noticed there were no roads – everything had to be ‘boated’ in – so the homes had been piece-built – I was informed that some have been here since the twenties.  The bath water comes from the lake (might see some pipes) and it seems the sewage is worked on a latrine system and/or carried out.

As the workers made their way to a dock bringing more building supplies in, I stopped to chat – I think it was a about the type of wood they used (I saw cedar for a dock, and fur – where I am used to seeing more treated yellow pine).

They also mentioned there was another part to the lake but with the water down I might have to pull the kayak through – I was half way around the lake by that time so ‘more-lake’ sounded good.

not too bad a portage even though my feet were numb from the frigid water.

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Upper Echo Lake was even more ‘peaceful.’ The boat in the picture was coming to pick up the parts from the first boat – to shuttle them further, the only two on the lake.  Being here in the off season seems to work well for a paddler, I could imagine the busier traffic and ‘oscillating waves during the summer being more bothersome.  The lake today was really placid and easy to understand how (specially at this time of year) it got it’s name.

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There were numerous islands on this other portion of the lake too, stand-out rock.

and at the very end of the second lake I found the Lake Aloah trailhead for Desolation Wilderness – I guess alot of folks hike this trail and then some call for a boat-taxi to return across the lake and the rest of the way out (taxi closed for the winter).

Of course there were plenty of other things to look at too, houses built on rock islands, old weathered tree trunks, and rocks in the clear water.  While paddling the shoreline I had only found two small streams feeding the lake, later through conversation I learned that the lakes volume is supported mainly from the snow melt of winter.

From a wildlife standpoint I noticed a hawk; other than that it seemed void of wildlife, likely due to the time of year.  I did expect to notice more fish in the clear water – but didn’t.

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But again the shoreline continued to amuse.

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Then the short portage and back into the main portion of the lake – with the two sections I paddled the complete shoreline in a large ‘figure-8’ which seemed to work with the morning sun and breeze.

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The best word that I could think of for the docks and homes attached to the rocks was ‘improv,’ and in many places the cribbing filled with rock seemed to work well in stabilizing the structures.

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These were the pilings at the landing, plenty stable.  I find that each lake has it’s own unique characteristic’s – I think the rocks, the isolation, and the manner in which this lake has utilized simple ingenuity to enjoy it’s beauty – marks this lakes sound character.

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After a week ‘off of the water’ this simple paddle was just what I needed to help ‘acclimate’ me for Emerald Bay.  A person could easily spend six hours or more exploring Echo Lake, I had spent about five – leaving the next day for Emerald Bay and a day ahead of schedule.

As far as season, I do like the off season for it’s ‘peace’ and quiet – less doggone people.  Echo Lake is an easy lake to paddle and a nice place to spend some time – its pretty and unique in its own way – but come prepared to dress warm, even in the summer – the water is fresh!!..

“Hello out there”  “Hello out there“

The Colorado River, from Hoover Dam to Willow Beach

Water Clarity – 10 (‘purity’ would be less)

Natural Quality – 10 (even with the traffic)

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Nevada, and Las Vegas more specifically were obstacles that had to be put behind – a single ride down ‘the strip’ was good enough for me.  As I rode through town the sheer number and movement of folks reminded me of stepping on ant-beds as a kid – those doggone ants would swarm like crazy….  The sidewalks of the ‘strip’ were swarming with people – just like those ants!

Not knowing any better, my objective was to ‘ride’ the Colorado River from Hoover Dam to Willow Beach (above ‘Lake Mojave’), like Tahoe and the Labyrinth canyon; this was one of those things that was rattling in my ‘head.’  I had called ahead to Boulder City for some preliminary information on a shuttle (getting dropped off at the dam) and having my vehicle taken to Willow Beach (the normal ‘take-out’ point for the excursion) – just takes $$.

Then to find that a ‘permit’ was also necessary from the National Park Service (I knew this) – but if nothing else I figured to be in position to ‘slip through the cracks.’  Slots for permits were filled for the next 4-days – still, not a bid deal because I’m also a little thrifty (cheap! that’s why I’m paddlin) so my inclination was to go to Willow Beach; touch the water and figure it out – ‘making THE decision at ‘water’s edge.‘  I do this alot.

Willow Beach is 14 miles on the far side of the Hoover Dam (hwy 93), again a simple ride.  Over the years I had read and watched many programs on the Dam so it would be neat in itself to drive across it.

Nearing the dam there were more folks – before, during, and across the Hoover Dam (it was the 75th anniversary).  The area was alive with construction, traffic, and more doggone people – once again reminding me of all those ants.  Naturally I move away when the ants swarm (especially the red ones) …. so my tour of Hoover lasted of about like the main strip of Vegas – a simple drive through.

I didn’t come to mingle – I came to feel the kinder part of the Colorado, to paddle…

A few miles after the Dam there was a sign that pointed to the right and Willow Beach – from there it was five more miles down a secondary road into the desert.  At the Willow Beach Marina I backed down the ramp and stuck my foot in – making a decision at water’s edge.  First thought, brrrrrrr – the water comes out of the dam at 54 degrees, not much warmer here – a paradox?  It was desert hot outside – and definitely cool in the water.

It fit, so I loaded most of my stuff (forgot my note-pad) and started paddlin – upstream, if I made it fine, if I didn’t that was fine too.

The current is not all that noticeable at first – nothing like The Silver River, which I kinda use as a gauge for meeting current challenges; if I could paddle and enjoy that river – then this should be possible also.  Paddlin upstream is just a matter of finding any ‘dead-water,’ ‘hugging’ the wall, maintaining the motion, and taking advantage of any ‘slow-water’ (eddy’s) along the way.

It’s just “water passing under you”

In the distance I noticed others ahead paddling upstream also, surprised to see them and then more surprised to catch up with them without changing my steady pace.  Ended up paddling alongside and conversing with Dawn (a corporate trainer from Phoenix) whom had organized her group through Desert Adventures out of Las Vegas.  Her sister (Angela) was in the group and an Officer for (Denver or Phoenix) the Fire Department, simple conversation – in a bit they stopped for a break while I remained in motion.

For some reason I was expecting the Colorado River to be muddy, but this water was awesome – a solid 10 on clarity, you could see the bottom at thirty feet easily – another similarity to The Silver River.  Now ‘purity may be more in question, I did see ‘stuff’ (particles) up the river that made me think not to use the water for sustenance – but still the clarity on this section of the Colorado was on the opposite end of the scale of the Mississippi.

I continued to ‘work’ any ‘dead’ water I could find – usually along the wall or shore out of the main current.  I learned later that the amount of water coming ‘down the pike’ (from Hoover) is relative and fluctuates as to how many folks in Los Angeles had their air-conditioners running (using electricity), well – there was a heat wave in LA and I had put in at Willow Beach near lunch – you figure… They were making power at the dam for sure, and I couldn’t get any closer to the wall… I was just too stupid to know – and it was probably better that way.

But I did make reasonable headway.  There are mile-markers along the river too, Willow Beach is at the 52, The Hoover Dam is at the 64 – I made it to the 60 which I thought was appropriate (Life at 60).  Far enough because it was now 4 in the afternoon and the folks in LA were getting home from work and turning on more air-conditioners, a radio, and their TV sets…

I was at a point with no ‘dead-water’ and there were visible shoals ahead.  Noticing a beach on the other side I ferry-angled across and paddled like crazy….. it was great place to set up camp for the night.

There were even two ‘crappers’ and a hot-spring there – an inviting and well used stop. Found out later in speaking with other kayakers about this ‘hot-spot’ on the river (Arizona Hot Springs).

waggit adder

With the tent pitched, my glaucoma treated, and a bird-bath (in the ‘fresh’ water) I ‘kicked-back’ in something as good as a lawn chair (my kayak) and enjoyed a premixed cranberry juice/tequila beverage (a “waggit adder”).  My neighbors Bruce and Mike were good in light conversation even though they inferred that some drinkers were trouble-makers (the kayakers vs ‘doggone’ people thing), they were ok guys and I continued to make notes on my paddle with a sharpie (forgot my note-pad) as the water flow and shoreline fluctuated – the folks in LA must have been turning their air-conditioners down some.

The river lowered and slowed and then somewhere in the wee hours of the night 4 other happy paddlers arrived for the weekend….(they were having a blast)….

First thing in the morning I ‘broke-camp’ and paddled up river another half-mile just to be sure that I had made the 60 mm, I feel like with the calmer water conditions one just might make the dam 4 miles further up – but having this little circle in my life satisfied I drifted past camp and started the slow ride back down river….

It was peaceful being pointed downriver, one guy was working his way upstream with an extra kayak and the morning guides in empty rafts were not far behind headed to the dam to pick up their tourists/sightseers….

It was an easy paddle and there was plenty of time to check-out the ‘in’s and out’s of all the ‘nooks and cranny’s’ along the way.

Since putting in I have seen Bald-eagles, hawks, and numerous big-horn sheep in their natural habitat, it was also interesting how the ‘big-horns’ walk the cliffs high above the river in search of food .  A gentle mist fell leaving me to wonder if they were able to get enough moisture from the plants for sustenance – certainly it was too steep to come down to the water…

But wait a minute, human life forms ahead – turned out to be Dawn’s group so I stopped and chatted with Angela about Fire Department stuff as they loaded for the day, they were working their way further up river for a camp adventure.

With that intermission I needed to get my mind back on the river,

and the ‘nook’s and cranny’s’ along the way – or jump in,

paddling helps,

soon afterward I noticed two separate groups of big-horn working their way down an old hiking trail,

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right to waters edge where they took a long hard drink.  I drifted right into them and sat stoically in the kayak as the oldest ‘buck’ took a long hard drink – didn’t seem to mind at all as I passed.

The younger bull gave the older a wide-berth and kept a respectable distance.

As I began nearing Willow Beach more paddlers appeared headed upriver, so I guess this is a common route..

there were also two (2) bald-eagles dropping down for fish – couldn’t get a better picture.

back to ‘Willow Beach.’

Back at the boat-ramp there was there was a blend of sunlight and dark clouds (with lightning in them) all under desert conditions, interesting and dangerous yet beautiful in combination.  As for the paddle, it was perfect and as good if not better than starting at the Dam, plus – it was free…

So if Paddling down the Colorado is on your list of things to do, plan ahead and get an outfitter to help you ($$) or simply take the paddle option from Willow Beach up river to at least the 60, earn your ‘river-time.’

It’s well worth the effort, cheap, and with the heat the water felt wonderful.

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Where the Colorado River begins, Will and Zak know

Source to The Sea, 2011.