Life at 60, (mph)

– post 5 of 8 –

A RIVER OF TIME

10 Days on the Suwannee River, Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico – 225 miles

Day 7, Adams Tract River Camp (85 rm) to riverside camp near Gornto Springs (59 rm)

Adams Tract River Camp

After paddlin a full day it was a small chore getting traveller up the steep stairs at Adams Tract last evening.  Within it all I pondered how anyone could ever complain? everything about the ‘camps’ along the Suwannee is perfect, – the showers, screened rooms, a pavilion, – awesome places.  My humble ‘base-line’ is being mentally prepared for less than level settings’ along the river (sliding into the bottom corner of the tent situations), what I find is managed, friendly, and level.  So without hesitation I appreciatively pulled traveller up the many steps to the river-camp.  Once on the flat walk I located one of their handy carts and rolled everything right on up to the camp site.

It was was probably one of the better stops because I didn’t have to unload a thing – just wheeled ‘er right up to the picknick table in from of the cabin and worked from it like a suitcase (leaving the cart open for others) – later trip.

This morning the ‘going down’ was much easier.

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GOOD JOB RIVER CAMP FOLKS!(thanks for making it possible)

I slept well and was once again on the river by 815 – enveloped within the peaceful moments of the morning.

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Serenity now.

Sitting on traveller I sensed the magnitude of how nice this setting was; it was so dominated by ‘peace’ that any ‘man-made’ sounds were quickly muffled within the morning’s overwhelming calmness.   I noticed too that the only ripples in the water were from the branches of old trees either protruding from or sticking into the water, – at the time there was no noticeable wind.

It was kinda like completely relaxing in a bathtub (for those old enough to remember) and recognizing that the only movement within the water – was from the sole act of breathing.

This morning I was riding the Suwannee river’s ‘stillness,’ it’s breath – the moments we reach for.  It was a mellow Suwannee current; and I was indeed…..

calibrated

Little River Springs

Noticing even more springs along the way I paddled into The Little River springs.  There were some divers preparing to enter the spring – ‘Eric’ (one of the divers) mentioned that these springs were more than 100′ feet in depth – being a certified diver myself we talked a little about diving and the intricacies of ‘cave-diving’ – I’m guessing that cave-divers just have larger gonads….

So Eric grabbed my camera and took a shot of me while passing (thanks)

(Little River water level, Day 4 – April 2012)

Paddling the shoreline there are the occasional fishermen, this fellow had a restored wooden boat that looked really neat – it was the best picture I could get because I didn’t want to intrude on his fishing – I saw numerous fishermen along the Suwannee.

Branford

Just before the Bridge at Branford I noticed the old train depot through the trees with a clear bank leading to it, – it was a simple pull-out and a clean walk up to the depot.  It was high noon and just a building away – ‘Sisters’ restaurant and their ‘ballast-buffet,’ fried chicken, greenage, vegetables, and all that good stuff – lead, ballast! (cash only).

Ivey Springs

I ate well to say the least – then waddled back down to the kayak and shoved out.  Immediately after the bridge is Ivey springs/park, so I paddled through it too as local kids played in the water.

Returning to the river there was our wooden boat fisherman again, he asked me to tell his Mom “hello’ when I made it to rivers end – she lived at the end of the river in the town of Suwannee, on the Gulf.

‘feet-up’ Sunday afternoon

I made several stops just to enjoy the shade.

I like unique dock-art too, this place I almost thought could be open for business – but it wasn’t.  I think along the entire river I only saw two places that might have been businesses. There were several occasions that I thought living along the Suwannee would be a great – a little further and you even have access to the Gulf.

It was a beautiful sunny Sunday afternoon on the Suwannee and the boat activity picked up quite between Branford and the Santa Fe.  Of course there were several ‘young bucks’ with their 250-‘kickers’ running the river too, they blasted-by me shooting a rooster tail so high in the air that when it landed it was just mist, no big deal – they were also running so fast that their boat hardly left a wake.

All along the Suwannee I found that boaters for the most part, showed high regard to paddlers by slowing down – I understand too and this is a weekend – have a great time I will deal with the waves, but! – leave me my ‘peace’ during the week or I’ll bitch.

As for any issues – I have none, Branford’s ballast buffet kept traveller’s bottom side down.

Now – the worst thing about this day was I that lost the @ pictures from the rest of the afternoon.  It was a period that I visited the junction of the Santa Fe rivers, an especially busy intersection of sand, bathing-suits, and Sunday-afternoon congregations.  Certainly I stopped and took a walk while finishing my own special drink combination (w/a),  before moving on down the Suwannee, – ‘just a part of it.’

It’s not at all unusual on weekends to find the confluence of the Santa Fe river packed with partakers and party boats.  If you have time there is a camping/land-food/bar a mile up river – Ellie Rays. On a weekday it might just be worth the short paddle.

At the right water level the difference in with the water clarity of the Sante Fe can be stark – and inviting, jump in.

It’s 10 miles to the 340-bridge from the Sante Fe.  Later, I came upon some large vessels (the Mona twins) docked riverside and had taken some (I thought) pretty neat pictures, but due to my own stupidity (and maybe a little of that drink concoction), no picts.

‘Riverside camp’ on this night, just a few miles further (hwy 340 bridge) would have provided a much better setting with land-food available at the Rocky-Bluff store (above the bridge landing) – learning process.

My thoughts for this day were that after paddling through all that peace of the early morning, the afternoon brought a ‘lightning storm of people,’ folks out in their machines enjoying the weekend – after the Santa Fe the storm died down and the Suwannee became naturally wild and quiet once again – the moments we seek..

(more pictures from this date)

Facebook post; “Sisters” lunch in Branford, ‘ballast buffet’ – needed it, beautiful Sunday with all out on water, especially at the Santa Fe junction, 27 miles – should make Fanning Springs tomorrow and paddle some more springs riverside – this is a nice river. @160 miles behind, ‘feet-up’ pace”

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Next day, to Fanning Springs;

• Day 8 – to Fanning Springs (34 rm)

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note: even though mentioned and shown on available maps – there are NO physical ‘river-mile’ indicators along the river.  For further Suwannee River mileage information, check this link – Suwannee River Mileage, Trip Agenda ideas.

Opinion; Marking existing landmarks such as bridges, ramps, and river camps with a numerical reference would provide basic orientation points (and emergency references) along the river (the Mississippi has them).

– post 8 of 8 –

A RIVER OF TIME

Anderson Landing

(GPS – 18 SE 225 St, Old Town, FL)

Suwannee, Fl

The reward.

Day 10 – after 225 miles of paddlin this was the perfect layover – Suwannee, the town.  I would suggest to others arriving in like-manner to take an extra day here, ‘stop and put your ‘feet-up.’

Just outside of those two little portholes are the comings and goings of the folks that live with this area’s blessings – leading to another perception gained while paddling the Suwannee’s length – I wouldn’t hesitate to eat anything that comes out of these waters.  Throughout the distance of the Suwannee I never noticed an industry along her shorelines, and only heard a single voice of concern over the nutrients originating from mid-Florida livestock – I couldn’t help but to feel that whatever comes from the Suwannee’s waters is quality food!

I even tasted some excellently seasoned ‘gator-tail’ while at a local eatery.

While ‘putting your feet-up‘ there are four possibilities, (1) – paddle westward through the canals and into the saw-grass maze towards the Gulf

Its gator habitat too – while paddling toward the flats I did notice a gator with only a third of a tail – knowing that their tails are an important factor of propulsion, I later posed the question (for conversation) to a ‘local’ while ‘bellied-up’ at the Salt Creek bar – wondering too if anyone knew of this particular gator.

“Could a gator survive in the wild without it’s tail?” the ‘local’ said “sure” they could, and “that was probably his tail that I was eating.”

another possibility is (2) inward and paddle ‘canal world’ where almost everyone has a boat garage’ – each with their own version of a fish-cleaning station; old and new.

It must feel like this in heaven.

or (3) the eastward direction back onto the Suwannee’s main flow to maybe say “adios” Poseidon for sharing ten days from the ‘topside‘ on her waters.

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Which I did also – with the incoming tide and the outgoing wind I sat motionless on the Suwannee – held in check by opposing forces.  In research for paddling the river, advice to check the tide direction was noted; – I thought about this as I paddled the last leg from Fanning Springs yet really did not believe that the tide was a factor until reaching this point, the town of Suwannee.  The tide at this point could be a strong ally with running to the Gulf and back – Bills Fish camp has tidal information available for the asking (its shorter if you paddle through the town to the Gulf).

The Cape Coral

The delta landscape of the Suwannee River near the Gulf.

or (4) just sit back and enjoy the world in front of you.

It was the best ten bucks that I’ve spent in a long, long time.

Ten bucks for camping two nights at a place you can paddle through the canals of the little town; head out into the marshes, or the river, or out to the Gulf. Take some ‘no-see-um’ spray….

Eats; In walking distance is Sarah’s Suwannee Cafe (breakfast/lunch), a Post Office, and the Salt Creek Restaurant (diner/bar), spend the savings from the room to replenish what you’ve burnt coming down the river.

A small example of the homes, there were many more conventional.

Double-wide on stiltz

I like how they ‘jacked them up’ and screened in the area below, nice.

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but I guess I can’t stay forever, “I got boats to build” (jb)……..

Facebook Post; “Took the day off and paddled the flats of the Suwannee delta”……..

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Paddling Live Oak to the Gulf

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Suwannee River Mile References 

Georgia to the Gulf, 225 river miles, 10 paddle days

Links to the other posts of this paddle trip;

• Days 1 and 2 – Fargo Ga, to riverside camp to just above Big Shoals (178rm)
• Day 3 Big Shoals to Woods Ferry River Camp (159rm)
• Days 4 and 5 – Woods Ferry to riverside camp (136rm) to Dowling Park River Camp (113 rm)
• Day 6 – to Adams Tract River Camp (85 rm)
• Day 7 – to riverside (56rm) just above Gornto Springs (56rm)
• Day 8 – to Fanning Springs (34 rm)
• Day 9 – to Anderson’s Landing River Camp

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The Okefenokee Swamp

“Stretching from Waycross, Georgia to the Georgia-Florida border, the Okefenokee Swamp represented the last of the untamed wilderness in Georgia after the War Between the States. Covering more than 700 square miles of territory, this vast land mass was once thought to be uninhabitable and as such was not distributed by Georgia when it was “acquired” from the Creek Nation. Actually, the Okefenokee was inhabitable and had been extensively settled by early cultures of Moundbuilders, both prehistoric and transitional.” OurGeorgia History.com (other Okefenokee facts)

The group with which I had just paddled on the Suwanee had thrown out the idea leaving the possibility ‘open’ of stopping by the Okefenokee for a quick paddle on the return trip home –

In moving ahead of the others I was able to maintain a casual pace making stops in White Springs, Big Shoals, Cone Bridge Landing and then Hwy 6 at the river – the Northern most accessible areas of the Suwannee, its more of a large creek as the river passes the Georgia state line.

The Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is pretty much off the ‘beaten trail in the lower part of Georgia, but its also a point that I regularly travel past without entering.  Getting into the heart of the Okefenokee requires following hwy 177 from Hwy 441 near Fargo, Ga – to its abrupt end 18-miles into the center of the swamp.

(VGPS – 17515 GA-177, Fargo, GA)

Being raised near the Everglades in South Florida I have always held some doubt as to a similar landscape further North, but its there – alive and well in the South Georgia heat – along with the gators, turtles, hawks, and all the other swamp critters that love to call a swamp its home.

Once inside the Stephen P Foster State Park I found the group unloading near the store landing, I guess a quick paddle of the Okefenokee was going to work-out after all.

At the landing the Park service has a neat little store with some interesting trinkets (no stuffed gators) along with basic quick food improvisations, and this is where you pay the day-fee of five-bucks.  From this point its possible to rent one of their thirty something John-boats (4-hp motors) canoes or kayaks and head out along the canals and canoe trails to witness the cypress trees, wildlife, – its a sense of living geography – with the minimal of direction.

The gators were present and closely watching at the ramp, from there it was just a matter of heading out and along this narrow canal to a larger one (Billy’s Lake) about a half-a-mile further into the swamp.

Once on the larger canal you decide which direction to take – we went to the right towards Billy’s Island, once a Billy Bowlegs hideout for 20 years.  This earthen island (4-miles long 1.5 miles wide) once served as home to early native Americans and then a village of about 500 loggers early in the 1900’s.

There is signage to help with your decision to which way to paddle, and from what I noticed back at the store – help is on hand if something arises – just might take them a bit to get to you.

There were gators immediately apparent, most basking in the sun or immediately proximate to our kayaks – with the number of us I figure the odds were good that I’d make it back uneaten, just needed to stay in the boat.  Paddlin towards Billy’s island there was always the sense that something was watching – lots of gators, some that look across as you paddle by, those that slowly sink under the water as you near – and then those that lay motionless just beneath you.

Along some areas of the swamp there were large and impressive cypress stumps left over from the logging many years ago, many with new growth.  The cypress trees have made a solid comeback, pondering on the stumps it was easy to imagine the once majestic and prehistoric forest that once stood here.

Hundreds of gators – I wanted to kid one kayaker that they were just along as ‘bait,’ but then the ‘aura’ of the place told me ‘No’.  In paddlin the swamp there is more regard than concern – with that it remained the kind of place that a person would not want to be splashing around.

again there are marked canoe trails that ran off of this main channel.

I was surprised at the number of other folks that were out on those little boats – paddling, canoeing – and other groups, there were almost as many people as there were alligators.

a small dock marked the Billy’s island landing

I hear banjo music…

Once at Billy’s island we took a walk on the Parks marked trail, there are some history/informational markers, some old boilers, and a cemetery to gander at.

The walk was about thirty minutes, and once back at the dock we paused with a snack while other paddlers and families continued to come and go, again a much busier place than I had anticipated.

and this is where I had another issue too – a camera issue.  Actually it was my error in knocking the adjustment to the wrong position and not noticing, so after an hour or so paddle back out and taking some great shots (easy to say) of some great stumps and gators with the sun at my back – none of my pictures ‘came out’ (overexposed)….. but don’t take my word for it – paddle the ‘Oke

You will just have to believe me that the scenery was impressive…. My suggestion on paddling the Okefenokee is to paddle with another for sure – we spent about 4 hours there to Billy’s Island and then through a paddle trail – we could have easily spent more time going into the trails.

If you are on a trip south, its a simple day paddle and I highly recommend it, paddling in the presence of the Okefenokee alligators will prepare you for any others that you may encounter further south – heck, others may not even phase you after paddling here.

Paddling The Suwannee River

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Water Clarity – naturally tainted and high-quality

Natural Quality – 10

perception – Feb weekend

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note: even though mentioned and shown on available maps – there are NO river mile markers along the Suwannee river (which begins in the Okefenokee) , landmarks or bridges, ramps, and river camps along the way.  For further Suwannee River mileage information, check this link – Suwannee River Mileage, Trip Agenda ideas.

It would be positive to see a marker every couple of miles or on existing landmarks, benchmarks – as safety reference markers.

Swamper Tom (Everglades)

Estero River – Florida

Water Clarity – 6

Natural Quality – 7+

Perception – Friday

The wind was a solid 18 mph from the NE, a cool blast for the (us) Florida crackers – so windy that I wondered if I should even try.  Figuring that the river would provide some escape from the wind I headed for Koresan State Park to stick my finger in the air and make the final decision at water’s edge, I do that alot.

Just before the park I noticed Estero River Outfitters, so I stopped in to ask a few questions.  The folks there (Justin, Kyle) were real helpful even suggesting that I could park my vehicle and put-in there.  I had grown up in this area and as a boy remember crossing the older bridge at this point so many times – it just fit.

It was a perfect place to begin – just under Hwy-41; from there Estero Bay was several miles out through the tannic tea-colored water – if possible (wind/time) I wanted to make the Indian Mound Archaeological site.

The conditions along the river seemed ideal, with Koresan State Park bordering one side the river the setting had the ‘feel’ of one of the old Tarzan movies.

just paddlin and lookin…

There were a couple of housing developments along the way before entering the property of Estero Bay Preserve – each one interesting and well maintained in it’s own right, but not exactly why I was here.

In several places the river widened, just to narrow again around the next bend – it was a zig-zag pattern through the mangroves all the way – in the wind, out of the wind – against the wind, with the wind, a day like the Broadkill river in Delaware.

even the birds were huddled on the leeward side of the mangroves out of the constant gusts.

as I made the bay I looked out among the little islands, and took off to one that stood out about a half-a mile away – to the right on the picture.

Its funny looking at the pictures, the water in the bay seems calm – but it wasn’t, far from it.  I was in the ‘still’ of the mangroves on the leeward side – there were whitecaps in the open, so much so that I figured this island was far enough for the day.  This still left plenty of exploring to do along the mangroves while returning.

Back into the mangroves at marker 36 I went, with the wind, then against the wind – plus a number of stops along the way to explore the land and shell mounds.

For the day, I only saw two boats and three other paddlers, slow and peaceful – ez.

There is a raccoon in this picture looking at you, can you find him?

Several inlets and canals to explore.

and as the day went on, other paddlers from the Park came out.

the smaller parts of the river were the best.

Right back to the Hwy 41 bridge, it was a little after three in the afternoon and I had been on the water since 9 am, wasn’t really ready to get out so I paddled ‘up‘ the river a short way.

to the railroad trestle where I turned traveller around.

It was a fine way to spend the day, paddling down the river to the bay was scenic with lots of twists and turns and then to return and appreciate the mangroves along the way seemed perfect.  It was windier that it appears, but being in the protection of the river helped to alleviate the effects of the gusts (just paddle through them).  As for wildlife there were numerous kingfishers, herons, raccoons, osprey’s and lots of little creatures that kept these thoughts wandering.

Just a reminder….

that’s paddlin…