Life at 60, (mph)

.

An EZ two-day one night paddle on the Suwannee River.

.

.

The Suwannee River

As a native Floridian the words ‘Suwannee River’ have always been entrenched in generational discussions – and ‘lore.’  It’s an intriguing river – so I was eager for a ‘feel’ of that special place.

In preparation for paddling the complete Suwannee River from Georgia to the Gulf (225 miles) I ‘hooked-up’ with a group from SC that were headed to the Holton Creek section of the river (140.9 river-mile point), this visit would also provide some logistics about shuttling (one of the largest obstacles in paddling).  Being mainly a solo paddler paddling with a ‘group’ would be interesting too.

We met and spent Friday night at the Suwannee River State Park (127 river-mile), the park is well-kept, the rates very reasonable, clean showers (big drains and hot water).  The hot and cold lever was half-way across the stall (reacting slowly with adjustment) leaving the distance between to remind me that I was indeed ‘camping.’

My first impression of the ‘group advantage’ had to do with ‘car-pooling’ and the trailer – helpful and a good sight.  As the group felt inclined to move – the next morning we would head upriver twenty something miles to put-in, paddle up river a couple of miles before paddling down to the river camp, then return to the park the following day.  Two days on the river and right back to where I stood! awesome – I gladly threw traveller on for the ride.

.

.

The Suwannee River Outpost (@148 river-mile) is where we put-in, 2 bucks ‘a-head.’  They also provide a shuttle service for taking interested parties and their gear further upriver, – or retrieve from anywhere downriver (for a fee).  Located on the river the outpost is a designated ‘hub” and located all the way to the rear of the Suwannee River Music Park.

Didn’t take long to get traveller into the water and just as quickly the character of the Suwannee became apparent – it’s an ancient quality, an atmosphere that is possible to visualize if you try.  Paddling along this section of the Suwannee it becomes easy to imagine how it once divided the native peoples of the land, at one place I noticed an old landing and the remnants of foundation poles which long-ago guided a one-horse ‘pull-ferry.’  The Suwannee feels ancient, over that period of time it has carved a simple gorge through the limestone of northern Florida – it’s easy to contemplate the likely obstacle that this feature presented early settlers.

.

Our first direction was paddling ‘up- river’ about two-miles to the once Suwannee Springs (150 river-mile), its an easy paddle against a gentle current to the remnants of a long-ago era when the theory prevailed that water bubbling from the ground would heal all of your ailments – I guess everyone’s using the pharmacy nowadays because it hasn’t been used for more than eighty years.  As for it’s ‘healing powers I don’t doubt that it worked for a number of things; sittin in a hot-tub of water has been known to ease my mind too – ‘feet-up.’

‘Suwannee Springs’ lasted until the 1920’s before the highways passed it by, only thing left now is the seashell concrete.  All of the Suwanee’s tea-colored water (stain from leaves/rain) is fresh and appears of high-quality – it’s inviting to jump in..(where I wouldn’t at the Okefenokee)

In several places, especially around the SR State Park – earthen ground fortifications remain where the Confederates and later the Union, protected the railway – Civil War stuff.

So we walked on and around the springs, then turned our attention down river,

passing natural anomalies,

and some other less natural ‘anomilites.’

There were also signs of a natural paradise, sandy beaches amid cliffs of limestone.

.

But no worry about any gator’s hanging around with this armada coming down the river – a change from my regular paddling demeanor.  When I traveled to the Gunnison River in Colorado the ‘western rules’ were based primarily on paddler self-sufficiency, independence – the “sheep/wolf concept.”  This was indeed a different group, and style.  After paddling solo, this would be interesting and an opportunity to visit (maybe even enjoy) ‘the other side.’  This was a ‘social-kayaking bunch with the paddler’s pack (above) hydraulically packed – this group was in for the gathering.

The wind on the river can ‘channel’ and change directions – there were times that it was distinct in altering the trac of the kayaks.  These folks paddled and chatted right on through it for every mile on this date, I wondered about ever hearing the ‘sounds of the river.’

It was a late (comfortable) morning start before paddling upstream a few miles and then returning ten-miles down to the campsite.  Holton Creek cabins, FREE and only available to paddlers, or hikers on the Florida Trail – you just have to make reservations.  Imagine, hot-water and showers in the middle of the woods, there are five of these ‘river-camps’ along the Suwannee River – it’s good to know that I won’t have to race a gator to take a shower….

Within the State Parks you MAY NOT touch any dead-wood or use downed wood or branches for a campfire, you must carry your own, sometimes you can pick it up from the ranger or ‘host’ on duty (Jim) – five bucks for six pieces of wood.  But it was an entertaining evening, the group shared hamburgers and ‘brats while watching the twelve pieces of wood incinerate in the black of the night – there was an open debate about setting ablaze some ‘frito’s chips – but they were ‘ohbytheway’ eaten during the discussion.

The next morning the hydraulic pack was much lighter and I was reminded that ‘groups’ naturally move slower.  It’s kinda like when all my wife’s sisters are in one place and one can’t go or do something without asking the other – then another, and so-on.  Its exactly the gray-area where years-ago my ‘BacShortly’ term took firm root – I just like to go, so I usually do.

I came ‘for the river’ and wanted to enjoy the easy unpopulated miles along with the ‘sounds of the river,’ I wanted to paddle ‘with’ the river and not just ‘down’ the river.  So I let one person know and quietly slid my kayak off the bank like a 14′ gator – ‘easing’ onto the Suwannee’s mellow current and down the gentle flow (knowing that hours later all would catch-up).

“If you’re quiet long-enough; others just might figure out how much noise they really make.” tgh 

Nice, this is what I came for – after drifting downriver and ‘a little calibration‘ my perspective of the Suwannee improved, there was indeed ‘peace’ on this river.  Another benefit to early paddling is the lack of wind, an early day can mean a much more comfortable pace over greater distance – with time for exploration.

– there were plenty of human things to be amused with,

– plus the animals; turtles and birds, hawks seemed unusually plentiful.  I noticed that some squirrels of one area had a reddish tint to them – interesting difference from the common gray squirrels in the Mountains or the large black ones I’ve seen in eastern New York state.

The Suwannee’s banks hold trees that had fallen and lay hundreds of years, their grains exposed to the elements and weathered as if sand-blasted by some powerful machine – cool, and beautiful in its own way.

The tree-roots were alive with character, tree neighborhoods – like the t-shirts bearing prolific art of tree-root images.  Some were stretched like exposed anacondas slithering down the bank, reacting only to time and necessity – evolutionary change…..

Human habitation too.

however old.

also occasional springs’ along waters edge,

Just before the hwy-249 bridge (135.5 river-mile) and Gibson Park, there was what appears to be a much larger boil river-right – I felt the water was too dark for a spring (later heard that it was an underground branch of the  Alapaha river) so I ventured in and paddled around atop the large boil – the only sign around was marked ‘Shelley Run.’

– figured it would be a good time to stretch so I did – then I heard a ‘ruckus’ coming down the river (this is also where I returned and camped on Day 4 of the Gulf trip)……

yep, human life-forms….

and down the river we went.

I opted to float-on in the shade as a couple of stops were made in the sun..

Right back to the Suwannee State Park boat-ramp.

Some trip pictures from ‘Big-John‘

.

Water Clarity – 7

(good quality, just naturally tainted)

Natural Quality – 9

Perception – weekend, February

.

Thanks Upstate Hiking/Outdoor bunch for all that you did and allowing me to ‘tag along’ – it was a big help, and fun.

Next move, paddling the length of this river. The Suwannee River; ‘a river of time’ – to the Gulf.

.

Suwannee River Mile References 

note: even though mentioned and shown on available maps – there are NO physical ‘river-mile’ indicators along the river.  For further Suwannee River mile-point information, check this link – Suwannee River Mileage, Trip Agenda ideas.

 

.

( “Buy American!” )

The Suwannee River runs from The Okefenokee Swamp of Southeast Georgia to the West coast of Florida and into the Gulf of Mexico, some 240 miles of meandering black water – from the Georgia Swamp to the small town of Suwannee, at the Gulf.

Another river on ‘my list’ to venture, why not?

A precursor overnight paddle next week around Live Oak, Fl and the Suwannee 140 mile mark/Holton Creek area will provide me a greater ‘taste’ of the river (even shuttle info, etc.) – Live Oak’s about half way down the river.

So camping on the river three nights next week (3/24-27) with about 6 other folks from SC will prepare me for ten the last week in March.

The Suwannee at Cone Bridge (186.5 rm) has seemed a natural stop for me when I travel old Highway 441 to Florida, which I do a couple times a year.  On more than one occasion this particular landing has been so inviting that I simply stayed right there for the night – Cone Bridge Landing.

its a place where paddlin groups pass and sometimes camp,

This particular Outward Bound group was ‘breaking camp’ on one of my stops (Nov 09), about 5 canoes – my interest was with/how their canoe’s were packed.  There is a 1000′ portage a few miles down river from this point at Big Shoals – a class III rapid before White Springs.

But it’s the kind of place you wake up and see deer AND wild turkey in the same view.

so yeah, I won’t mind paddlin this historic river river – not at all.

.

“Way down upon the Suwannee River…………….”

.
.

Life’s full of little circles just sittin there waiting to be completed.

Juniper Springs

Water Clarity – 10

Natural Quality – 8+

Perception – Tuesday

(VGPS – 26701 Florida 40, Silver Springs, FL)

Located within The Ocala National Forest, Fla.

From camping and paddling Alexander Springs the previous day to a day at Juniper Springs? What to do? – As I passed Ray Wayside Park the choice to paddle The Silver again was present, but there was something about the ‘free-ride’ down the Juniper that I wanted to return to.

The ride from the Ocala Motel to Juniper Springs took about 40 minutes, so my 8am start time fell in to a 9am’er – the prize for that later time – ‘doggone people,’ or after so much paddling alone – ‘cheap entertainment.’

This older group of canoeist (using that word ‘loosely’) had ‘keystone cops’ written all over them…. I love landings for the entertainment value so I sat across the stream as they struggled ‘putting-in.’ Fun, apprehension, joy, nervous laughter, it was all there – and of coarse the ‘banging’ around, lots and lots of loud ‘BANGING’ around….. I suppose the aluminum canoes are a measure of safety for many because with all the racket they didn’t have to worry about the gators – any gators would be long gone by the time this crowd came near (so would all the birds, turtles, deer, – and most other paddlers)..

So off they finally went, I followed behind with one other more peaceful canoer bringing up the rear.

Yep – it didn’t take but just a few curves before the process began of who? was working together –

and then once in the water, whom! was not….

Lets give them some credit – they are on the water!… The first part of Juniper has some maneuvering and adjustments for anyone – at the same time that your getting comfortable with your vessel.  A canoe sits higher and without being in one in say 40 years – those folks did pretty well making it as far as they did :-), getting old doesn’t help (and its the best excuse).

Time to move on and with a few words of encouragement (in between their ‘bantering’) plus a little guilt I moved on to see if what if any wildlife might remain.

Maybe the problem with a dependent group (“sheep,” as Eric might concur) could be that you pay more attention to each other rather than the natural qualities that put you where you are, every one’s got their reasons.

‘Ken’ from Colorado (Pagosa Springs), was also in that landing bunch but not a part of them; he had fallen behind and in kindred spirit we began to enjoy Juniper as we meant to see it – calibration, observation, and occasional chat.

My last visit to Juniper was in February and the water was more ‘tea-colored’ (tannic water) as it trickled in from the surrounding land.

Today the water was as clear as the Itchetucknee the entire run.

After paddling a bit Ken and I found an ‘eddy and stopped to make a friendly wager of whether the last canoeist;

• A) stopped/stayed to help the others out, or
• B) moved past them…

with a little time and more ‘banging’ in the distance, the last aluminum canoeist quietly rounded the bend shaking his head.  Didn’t see or hear him the rest of the day.

In chat Ken had picked up this little kayak because it fit neatly within the confines of his truck and he wanted that option when staying at a Park.  He was finally getting some use out of it and Juniper was a good place to start with it as he went further south; the maneuvering it would allow him to get oriented to kayaking (paddlin).

Back to the peace of Juniper Springs, in several places the stream splits – it doesent matter which route that you take they all reconnect, stay with the flow.  Even on the smaller splits these today showed the positive signs of the summer traffic (a clearer paddle trail).

again, where it was ‘tea-colored’ water before it was a ’10’ on this date.

The smaller and tighter beginning of Juniper opens up some with distance,  it gave me hope for those ‘canoeist’s’ bringing up the rear (probably an hour behind).  What still remained was plenty of maneuvering – fallen trees happen.  Apparent obstructions stand in front of you, yet as you near – you should find your ‘line.’

For all those that work on keeping these paddle trails clear, thanks.

I wondered if the old cypress had fallen, you can see clean under or around it – nope, still standing proud.

A ‘beater’ is a tree stump that shows the trickery of the current at times, multitude of canoes have left their mark – along with that no-ones perfect – many times the moment that I reached for the camera just happened to be the moment that I needed to completely miss a ‘beater’….

along with an occasional (and well used) ‘paddle prod.’

Soon we did come upon a ‘strainer’ that blocked the river, it really wasn’t a difficult crossing – just took a little agility, I really would have loved to hung around and watch the other’s behind cross this tree,

but as Jimmy Buffet sings – I got “boats to build.”

Gator in the water, for the day I only saw two (@ 5 and this 8 footer) – and again came right up on a deer drinking.

Rapids?

All too soon came the old pilings before the new bridge, I could hear the sound of an occasional car where on my last visit there was the pounding of a pile-driver and highway work, the peace was much better.

Just after the bridge the park shuttle was waiting – the shuttle leaves at 130, 230, 330, and so on through the afternoon and for 12 or 15 bucks they will return you to the park where your vehicle is secure (or for 6 bucks you can put-in and shuttle with a friend).  We had left the landing at around 915 and at a very easy pace made it to the bridge just before two, as I had anticipated – the canoer’s didn’t show…..

I really hope they made it ok.

Juniper Springs is one of those ‘free-rides‘ that is not a difficult paddle, while being very scenic it is a little tricky and allows one to become more familiar with maneuvering through the obstacles at hand.  It gets alot of use which has it’s benefits (keeps the trail beat back) along with some disadvantages (‘doggone people‘), I saw very little unnatural sediment and would recommend it highly to anyone wanting a special insight into Florida’s once primitive landscape, or simply a ‘day-off.’

My father always said “never own the same car twice,” but this just might be one of those ‘paddles’ that deserves to be revisited from time to time.

(other pictures from this day)

.

March 2017

was passing by, and stopped; always a good ‘time-out’ 

( “Buy American!” )

Alexander Springs – Fla.

Water Clarity – 10

Natural Quality – 10

Perception – Monday

Located within The Ocala National Forest, Fla

 

.

After an enjoyable weekend with some familiar faces from my hometown in Ft Myers – (we grew up in the same neighborhood and went to the same schools for more than 12 years) – it was good to see those familiar eyes in the crowd once again.

Several nights of ‘visiting’ coupled with a time-change was catching up with me, so I headed up to The National Forest in Ocala to ‘spread-out’ a little, arriving at Alexander Campground  at about six in the evening.  November is the time of year before the crowd – so it was the campsite of choice, with a hot shower nearby.

.

When the sun went down so did I, a full nights rest – even the cool 38 degree night didn’t deter my sleep (down blanket) zzzzzz…

First thing in the morning buzzards watched from the ramp as I slid into the water by 830a, always an early go when camping.

Didn’t take but a moment to notice the clarity of the spring water, at a constant 72 degrees it was warmer than the air – so the vapor was rising early – as were the animals of the creek – an eagle was keeping a close eye on me as I passed (or he was sizing up the rubber frog on my bow).

Lots of ‘natural quality.’

The first ‘leg’ to the bridge took about an hour – just perfect water and weather.  I had read that ‘beginners’ should not go past this point leaving me to speculate as to Why? (and how do you become ‘more’ than a beginner?)

Over the next few miles the river narrowed and slowed – some sunny areas were full of hyacinths and river grass, still it was possible to ‘plug’ through while enjoying the engulfing reality of it all.

The reward of course for ‘pluggin-on’ was that the river would suddenly open up and be surrounded by forest and trees – and then you would pass through a great natural creek area.  As I picked and chose my way through one of the grassy areas I wondered – maybe a ‘beginner’ might lack the mental fortitude it takes to breach these areas.  After a warm summer the slower water areas fill with this growth – I’m sure it is clearer in the spring.

Just awesome little creek areas, and then faced with another grass crossing – not really a big deal, staying with the main current helps some –

or sometimes the occasional gator trail helps too.

Within those growth areas there were several marker ribbons along the way, the first that I noticed I went to the left of and it led to a clear pass with a water gauge along the left bank (read 2.0 ft). I stopped and stretched, it appeared to be checked frequently (a worn path).

The gauge happened to be my three-hour mark (from the landing), going with the current – I wanted to make the 552 landing, so I continued on.

about thirty minutes after the gauge I found another marker – this time going to the right of it, wasn’t long before I hit a strainer and couldn’t go further without crossing over – there were more in sight too.  Figuring that nothing could top the natural Florida creek setting I had already seen, I turned around and started back up river.

There were about five isolated ‘hunting camps’ along one side of the river, at one I stopped to stretch and eat a late sandwich while thinking about the critters I had seen – for the day I had seen the Eagles, Ospreys, kingfishers, an Otter, turtles, commerants, herons, six gators – and heard several large beasts beating through the palmetto bushes in the woods – still unsure what I rousted-up in there.

With the many little islands and contours of the creek, there are times that it’s your choice whether to go left or right.

I thought long and hard about the Natural Quality rating of this creek/river because of some of the unnatural sediment that I had seen, but the patches of lilies and hyacinths that you have to work through actually enhance the quality of nature here, along with that the lack of noise pollution easily made it a 10 on my scale.

Soon the bridge came into view so I knew I was a little more than an hour from the landing.

There’s a gator under that water, I followed just above this one for 50 yards or so before he stopped and watched me pass over.

and one in the sun. The American alligators are naturally afraid of humans, so unless you intentionally poke one with your paddle or jump on it and call its mom a handbag, – they will avoid you.

Back to the landing at three o’clock, seven hours after leaving.

Alexander Springs, its a good day paddle – a little more challenging than Juniper (which I will do again tomorrow) because of the paddle back upstream, but really not tough at all ( the Silver and Colorado were more challenging currents).  They are probably right about beginners only going an hour out or to the bridge unless accompanied further with a more experienced paddler, the challenges are more a mental thing in working through the grasses and sunning gators (and whatever it was running through those woods).

Rainbow Springs, or the Ichetucknee further north are nice simple paddles too – but for clear water and a natural Florida habitat, Alexander is a ‘ten.’

(other pictures from this day)