Life at 60, (mph)

Estero River – Florida

Water Clarity – 6

Natural Quality – 7+

Perception – Friday

The wind was a solid 18 mph from the NE, a cool blast for the (us) Florida crackers – so windy that I wondered if I should even try.  Figuring that the river would provide some escape from the wind I headed for Koresan State Park to stick my finger in the air and make the final decision at water’s edge, I do that alot.

Just before the park I noticed Estero River Outfitters, so I stopped in to ask a few questions.  The folks there (Justin, Kyle) were real helpful even suggesting that I could park my vehicle and put-in there.  I had grown up in this area and as a boy remember crossing the older bridge at this point so many times – it just fit.

It was a perfect place to begin – just under Hwy-41; from there Estero Bay was several miles out through the tannic tea-colored water – if possible (wind/time) I wanted to make the Indian Mound Archaeological site.

The conditions along the river seemed ideal, with Koresan State Park bordering one side the river the setting had the ‘feel’ of one of the old Tarzan movies.

just paddlin and lookin…

There were a couple of housing developments along the way before entering the property of Estero Bay Preserve – each one interesting and well maintained in it’s own right, but not exactly why I was here.

In several places the river widened, just to narrow again around the next bend – it was a zig-zag pattern through the mangroves all the way – in the wind, out of the wind – against the wind, with the wind, a day like the Broadkill river in Delaware.

even the birds were huddled on the leeward side of the mangroves out of the constant gusts.

as I made the bay I looked out among the little islands, and took off to one that stood out about a half-a mile away – to the right on the picture.

Its funny looking at the pictures, the water in the bay seems calm – but it wasn’t, far from it.  I was in the ‘still’ of the mangroves on the leeward side – there were whitecaps in the open, so much so that I figured this island was far enough for the day.  This still left plenty of exploring to do along the mangroves while returning.

Back into the mangroves at marker 36 I went, with the wind, then against the wind – plus a number of stops along the way to explore the land and shell mounds.

For the day, I only saw two boats and three other paddlers, slow and peaceful – ez.

There is a raccoon in this picture looking at you, can you find him?

Several inlets and canals to explore.

and as the day went on, other paddlers from the Park came out.

the smaller parts of the river were the best.

Right back to the Hwy 41 bridge, it was a little after three in the afternoon and I had been on the water since 9 am, wasn’t really ready to get out so I paddled ‘up‘ the river a short way.

to the railroad trestle where I turned traveller around.

It was a fine way to spend the day, paddling down the river to the bay was scenic with lots of twists and turns and then to return and appreciate the mangroves along the way seemed perfect.  It was windier that it appears, but being in the protection of the river helped to alleviate the effects of the gusts (just paddle through them).  As for wildlife there were numerous kingfishers, herons, raccoons, osprey’s and lots of little creatures that kept these thoughts wandering.

that’s paddlin…

Lake Julian – NC

300 acres

Water Clarity – 6

Natural Quality – 5+

(GPS; 403 Overlook road extension, Asheville, NC)

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After a two and a half hour paddle, I noticed AFD Engine and Ladder 4  stationary at a nearby food establishment – also curious about the eatery I also stopped – they were just finishing their meal.  In conversation I was almost embarrassed to say that I had just paddled (and now writing about) Lake Julian, nothing special about it.  That kinda sums up how I felt about the lake when I put in earlier, – wasn’t really excited about it, but there I was..

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As a ‘local’ the past thirty years and having this body of water within our emergency response area, I have known of Lake Julian for a long time – yet have only been ON her waters a few times; each visit was in the mindset of rescue preparedness and business – not today, a ‘feet-up’ mindset.

Carolina Power/Progress Energy is the reason for this lake – the waters are necessary for the power plant to function (what the water does) providing the area electricity.

Lake Julian Park is located along Long Shoals rd (Exit 37, I-26) on the South side of Asheville, NC. – the lake is less than 300 acres – wading and/or swimming is prohibited; but sailing, electric motors, or paddling is fine. There is a small fee.

There are likely several reasons for the ‘no’ swimming; one – the primary purpose for this water is for power plant operations, through that process the water temperature of the lake is elevated (more so in the summer) creating ripe conditions for the duck and goose crap to become a potential health risk to swimmers.  Two – there is one area of public access in the lake with a current which could surprise a swimmer, over the past thirty years there have been several drownings at the lake.  Wading and swimming on/in the waters is not allowed.

(‘Festival of Lights’ display each December)

It is what it is; the kayak was on the roof and I was oozing with idle time – four bucks (launch fee) and moments later I was paddling the shoreline of West Julian – I guess it’s about perspective – a little Lake in South Asheville.

In the fall (and especially during the winter) there is a period in the mornings when the cool mountain air and the warm water from the plant clash, the vapor rises and lingers like the ghostly mist of a creepy Halloween cemetery (“Here lies Jim, said he could swim”).  The air was warming quickly, so the usually heavy fog dissipated rapidly, it was nice to slip up on some morning wildlife – and then a barn appeared through of the vapor.

The spillway or West end of Julian is a pretty ‘unremarkable’ part of the lake, a dry spillway along with the noise pollution of the power plant – yet it was simply a part of the shoreline that I wanted to paddle first (and hope to remember the lake from it’s ‘other’ more wooded areas).

– granted there were a few coves that had a natural ‘feel’ to them – fewer without a structure in view.

I recalled the railroad trestle from my first visit here years prior, this was the first that I had seen of it since.  I imagined the long line of coal cars providing fossil fuel to the plant on it, – the land part of it also acts as a barrier for the ‘cooling’ pond; prior to returning into the body of the lake (current area).

Today a temporary stable to ‘traveller.’

The little lake has it’s ‘corners’…

even though there always seems to be power lines in the view; here at the lower Park off of Hwy 25 is where that cooling pond area returns to the lake.  This is the lakes only current and an area of potential peril for swimmers…  lots of tangled fishing line about too.

I think I saw four or five blue heron, there was something about the warm water they liked.  I had also noticed the difference in the kayak – it was kinda missing that ‘cool’ bottom feel, and had a warm feel in the cockpit first thing in the morning – noticeably different than upon other waters, such as Lake Tahoe a last month.

Wild wings Cafe now overlooks this end of the lake (awesome location/view); if they had a dock I think I might just ‘paddle right up’ for a frosty one.

The traffic along Long Shoals rd added the character that I hadn’t missed, “doggone people“…  then a simple paddle along the shore and back towards the Park.

Also at Lake Julian Park is a small boat club, some rental kayaks, and a series of  competition style ‘row’ boats – signs that folks do get some quality use from this lake.

Right back around the park and near the ‘Ranger’s station.

and right back onto a captive audience, no – I didn’t feed them.

– and this is why, ‘land-mines‘ on the dock.  Don’t think all the docks were like this because they were not – there was a long water-hose nearby for washing it all off – leaving me to ponder, into what?

I actually had a decent paddle on Lake Julian, it was short, sweet, and simple – not too ‘wild’ but I did find a few fleeting moment’s of peace out there.  It was the first day of November and the leaves were mostly down or past ‘peak color.’

Still, after paddling so many other lakes recently – I had to remind myself that the primary purpose of this Lake is to support the power station, which in-turn supplies the areas power demands.  It’s a privilege to have such an ‘island’ of environmental reflection within this fast-paced community for the general public to escape and enjoy a picnic with the kids – or to paddle along her shorelines.  I appreciate the time on her water, it was a simple paddle, proximate, and well worth the four bucks.

For reasons of my own, I’d simply like to think of Julian as – Adios Lake.

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other places to paddle;

The Gunnison River – Delta to Whitewater, Co

Water Clarity – 5+

Natural Quality – 8+

(VGPS – 530 Gunnison River Dr, Delta, CO)

Class I and II

35 Miler

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Thanks to Eric and the ‘Western Paddlers’ group for allowing me to tag along with them on the Gunnison –  it wasn’t long at the landing before I recognized the folks as experienced paddlers, they seemed comfortable and prepared with for any conditions that they might encounter on Colorado water.

We met at Confluence Park in Delta on Saturday morning for a 35 mile overnight paddle, I really wasn’t sure what I was getting into but as long as it involved paddling and water I was ready for the challenge. Not sure what these seemingly more experienced paddlers thought with this open cockpit eastern logic sitting along side – but I suppose that it was along the lines of  ‘cheap entertainment’ (an ‘expendable’) – if that indeed was my purpose – I felt that the opportunity was certainly worth any ‘ribbing’ that might arise.

To the left in the picture above is Jerry, Eric’s Dad and a champion paddler, Jerry was full of valuable information and tips for us all – plus he was our main shuttle for the vehicles – as the weekend progressed and through simple conversation with Eric it was easy to understand the positive influence that he has provided his son.

All ‘revved up’ with morning coffee, the am start was simple – soon we had settled into the best part of why we were there – simply paddlin, ridin the river and taking it all in.

The other paddlers were Paul, a CEO and long-time paddler that continues to enjoy the ‘get-away’ of it all – he knew the river well through prior travels and had also paddled the Current River, one of my favorites.

Mat, whom I observed during the entire paddle handle his canoe much as I imagined a ‘trapper’ of a hundred years ago would have.  Both canoeists Paul and Mat were independent and quite adept with their skills, they were very much at ease on the water.  I was impressed, the manner in which they manged those vessels convinced me that canoes could be as maneuverable and agile as any kayak.

In her kayak and also very comfortable and adept on the river was Pam, always upbeat and full of conversation which helped shorten some of the river stretches – she made it look effortless.

– and then there was Eric, very involved with ‘paddlin’ and always helping folks get the most out of their paddling technique.  He also has many other interests one being petroglyphs and sharing this primitive rock-art of record keeping with other paddlers.  Aside from those interests Eric instructs paddling while sharing his knowledge of places to paddle with others.  Eric can be found at Western Paddlers, or Canoe Colorado, great information (and patience).

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Of course there was me and ‘traveller‘ bringing up the rear and feeling just a little out of place with these ‘peers,’ but I was on the water too – common ground.  I was happy to contribute so I did leave Eric with a few pictures that he will be able to utilize in his paddlin classes (for improving student skills).  Over the years I have provided many examples for others to learn from (I didn’t say they were good) – my contribution.

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In breakfast conversation I think we agreed that one of the neat things about paddlin was the ability to ‘slip up‘ on wildlife, so after passing these cows at water’s edge (they wouldn’t budge for a train), I just had to pun the so-called wildlife that we had just ‘slipped up’ on.  During the weekend I did see a couple of hawks, abundant heron, a beaver, an Owl, and some big-horn tracks….(and the cattle).

Plenty of interesting things to ponder along the way, in one conversation it was brought to light the Tamarisk plant – which was an invasive species of plant that had taken hold along the Gunnison shores, an ongoing effort to re-establish the Cottonwood trees was in progress.

But the day was about other things too, where I had ran the same 35 mile distance on the Current River a month earlier in one day (without trying), now I was learning how to stop and enjoy more along the way.

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This was all part of the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area – and the next stop was for lunch where Jerry joined us.  We took a walk and ogled a few petroglyphs along this canyon wall.

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A little climbing was involved, but there were unmolested petroglyphs to be found, interesting stuff.

Soon we were back on the water, doing what brought us together in the first place,….

Paddlin.  I think it was just after this smaller set of rapids that I provided Eric some of his best ‘improvement’ shots, me without a ‘skirt’ going through the ‘Hail-Mary’ rapids – no, I didn’t flip but I did come out with a half a tub of water…..

I think later Pam described the scenery the best, ‘fascinating.’

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And that word stuck – to see the ‘mechanic’s’ of change and how these mountains continue to evolve through years of weather and climate change was simply fascinating… I didn’t mind ‘bringin up the rear,’ I was fascinated by the landscape.

We stopped to camp for the night at the Dominguez Canyon wilderness area, a ‘well-used’ camping spot for the many seasonal paddlers, but only us on this night.

It really was a beautiful canyon, more of which I would see the following morning.

The evening it was full of simple conversation and sharing a few smiles.  Somewhere in it all I was asked if I had read the Western Paddler rules? “no” – but I guess I hadn’t broken any yet because I still remained among them..(still plenty of time I thought).

Actually in more discussion we talked in general terms of what many paddlers expect from a ‘group adventure,’ and I liked what I heard – this was not an ‘outfitter,’ but a group of paddlers.  A group of experienced paddlers do not want to ‘hold others back’ or to burden others experience with their personal or paddling issues – so independence is stressed (and expected) – everyone manages their own world, no ‘sheep.’

This subject of course did not come up because of anything I lacked, I was prepared (with exception of a ‘skirt’ for the kayak) – I even had my own ‘cranberry drink prepared (which they likely recognized after my ‘oh-crap‘ story’).

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I have been a lone paddler for the most part, mostly because I can paddle when others can’t – to be included with this group of paddlers was a good experience,  fun conversation and early to bed.

The next morning everyone broke camp and kayaks were readied without a word, from there we took a mile walk up the canyon.

It had all the ingredients and colors (except forest green).

and more petroglyphs, some a mere hundred years or younger and possibly peyote inspired (which I stepped-up and tried my early 70’s interpretations to).

I found it all interesting, the petroglyphs, the abundance quartz in the rock, the older and improvised habitats among the rocks,

and this old (but not ancient) holding pen preserved through isolation from another period of our western history – folks making do.

traveller

with a little time we got back to the river….

and plenty more interesting landscape along the way.

and in too short of a time, Whitewater landing came to view.

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It was a great paddle with these folks, comfortable and educational.  Even though we live in different areas of the country we found ourselves sharing time through the simple act of paddlin.  Our jobs and back grounds differ, yet somewhere inside we found similarities within the respect that each held of our natural surroundings.  We each valued nature, but did not wish to intrude – just wanted to spend some time with her.

Paddling is a ‘value’ that we share, either alone – or as part of a group..

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On a side note – when I returned to Pagosa Springs the grandkids had prepared a special glyph for me;

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