Life at 60, (mph)

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The most awesome day of coastal weather that I could have expected (especially for The ‘Graveyard of the Atlantic), it must be a ‘lull’ between fronts but the water is just as flat and placid as it could possibly have been – all day long.

Was up early from Frisco campground to ride the ferry between the islands of Hatteras and Ocracoke, then set out to find Silver Lake.  It was obvious and on the southernmost end of the island near the visitors center at the little town of Ocracoke – actually a ‘man-made’ basin.

It is also the home and port pretty much of Ocracoke, parking is aplenty so I put the kayak in at the landing on the Pamlico Sound side of the Visitor’s Center and paddled into the channel where the fishing boats and ferry’s pass, very calm and peaceful (except for the pile-driver at the mouth – WHAM, WHAM).

After camping I needed some earth-cooked food – so I paddled to a small Marina and located a nearby restaurant – ‘ballast.’

The most convenient was a place called Dajio’s, and I was the first of the day for a beverage and AAngus burger; – mmmmmeatt! (ballast). The place was quiet and the bartender (Tom) was polite in his conversation about the area, good food (and thanks for the ‘bottle-opener‘).

Soon I was back in the ‘Lake’ paddling, quietly drifting the shorelines in an peaceful observation mode. A lazy-day spirit until pushing back out into the sound. Along with the great weather and by utilizing the forces surrounding me, nothing strenuous about it – just the opposite, it fit..

The ‘sound’ was as quiet and peaceful as I could’ve hoped for, Pamlico Sound is a vast and shallow expanse of water; they say sting-rays love it but I didn’t notice any and the bottom visibility was good.

I considered paddling to the island that I could barely see, but unsure of the time I had already spent drifting the lake (and at the bar) I was plenty content to paddle a few miles up the shoreline – that’s what paddlin’s all about (plus, a very eco-friendly way to explore a natural area of planet).

It was a fine afternoon and a great place to paddle, I’m sure that weather is the fickle beast in this area – but on this date in April it really was the right place to be…. at the best time.

and yes, I gave these guys the right-of-way….

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In its entirety, it was like a “go eat and check-out the bar, and whenever you’re done – go paddle” kinda trip…

“The water was as level as life is good.” tgh

It was a much harder drive than I wanted to make but I also wanted to arrive at Chincoteague with some daylight left, so I pushed through Raleigh as the Duke basketball team were enjoying their spotlight for winning the NCAA crown (listened to their rally on the local radio station). It was in this area that the beginning of a continuous yellow haze of pollen inundated the air like a heavy dust – I’ve never ‘seen’ pollen to that degree, – it was like smoke.  Also as I crossed the Chesapeake Bay Bridge there were long yellow streaks of pollen floating across the water, on reaching the upper peninsula of Virginia it lightened up, – thank goodness for my sinuses, Clariden…

Made Chincoteague, Virginia by nightfall and located a campground, sure there were Hotels near – but I for this night didn’t need a tv, plus camping gives me an early start to the next day (with a shower).  I really don’t mind this ‘freestyle’ camping in the winter and cooler months – would think twice about it in the summer.

Chuck Wagon

Beverage and a cheese-steak sub while watching the lighthouse blink, five second rotation, two-flashes and then three seconds (thereabout) – I guess thats how mariners used to orient themselves.  It was a comfortable evening, feet-up.

– not sure about Captain Chandler’s situation but his grave site stood alone and to the North, near Oyster Bay where I considered putting the kayak in.

By morning I had rested well, the constant breeze from the bay helped – then up early for a shower and across the bridge to Chincoteague.  Five bucks get you in for the day (No Pets), I figured I might try to paddle ‘Tom’s Cove’ but it was windy and not one staff person could tell me if it was ok to put-in inside the park.

The ponies origin is unknown, but they are decedents either from a shipwreck or from farmers who avoided taxes by putting livestock on the islands in the 1600’s, anyway they are around, just inside fences – I thought Whats the difference in looking at horses along the highway? nothing that special in Chincoteague.  It is a national Wildlife refuge, so from that standpoint the birder’s could get their money’s worth, I just wanted to some calm water to paddle.

So I moved on.   Assateague island is part of two states, Chincoteague Va. is on the south end and to the North is Assateague State park which is in Maryland – there is not a highway from one end to the other.  It is necessary to drive back out into Virginia and North to access Assateague, what I found when I finally made it there later that day was well worth it, and kayak friendly – but first………..

along the way I explored some backroads and found ‘Greenbackville (nothing there, barely a turnaround – just thought the name was neat), but  with ‘Georges Landing (Virginia) I hit pay-dirt, it’s between the mainland and island and there was a kayak trail there, along with a dilapidated and abandoned oyster shed (which I had to explore).

Still a bit windy I wanted to make Assateague and kayak, I wasn’t dissapointed.

It was every thing I expected and more, the ponies were free-roaming and everywhere, their ‘land-mines’ were all around… it was kinda neat and how it should be.  The fee was 15.00 which I thought was high but its good for 7-days, I will return on my homeward trip.

I put in at the old Ferry landing and went against the breeze to the South, more horses – and solid paddlin.  In the coves it was possible to get out of the wind, but in moving around them – well, being a novice it just about kicked my butt, the hours in the kayak were worth it.

Much of the shoreline was hard crusted oyster-bed.

So I may just return and get my $ worth after I get some brush cleared in Delaware, if you like to camp, sight see, and bike-ride with the kids (no pets) go to Chincoteague, Va,

But if you like to kayak and want to see the horses in a wild state (don’t feed them) – go to the North end at Assateague, Md.  It would also work if you had someone drop you off and paddle the bay from Chincoteague to Assateague (or Ocean City) with the southern breeze, an all day trip – that would be the best.

From there it was back into the evening jungle of the seashore, Ocean City – a full day – but I’ll be back to do something more with what I have learned about Assateague.