Life at 60, (mph)

The Great Smoky Mountains

Nantahala Lake

“Giant pipes carry water from Nantahala Lake across the mountains to the Beechertown power plant where it is dropped down onto giant turbines to produce hydroelectric power. After the turbines the water is sent rushing out of the powerhouse and down the famous 8 ½ mile stretch of the Nantahala River between the power plant and Fontana Lake  thus creating one of the most popular whitewater rafting attractions in the United States! The Nantahala River has class 2 & 3 whitewater” – Carolina Outfitters.

Nantahala lake/river flows into Fontana lake.

Water Clarity – 9+

Natural Quality – 9

1605 acres

3010ft elevation

Water level Duke power

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The ‘white-water’ part of Nantahala is something that I have always been clear about; it’s where that water originated that was murky – this, is what I wanted to find out.

At 3010′ elevation, Nantahala is just west of Franklin, NC – a few miles after the little store of loafer’s glory. On this Sunday the little store was certainly living up to its reputation, there were five or six folks milling about and the ‘no particular place to go’ attitude prevailed – I felt right at home.  There were indeed too enough lingerer’s in conversation to make up a good bluegrass band, along with one or two quiet ones for a small audience.  With a little ease dropping even the words to a song could be imagined – only thing missing were the instruments.

Truth is I didn’t really need to stop but I was compelled too – wanted to walk around.  I heated-up a crappy little microwave biscuit, just to dwell at ‘Loafer’s Glory’ (store now closed).

Nantahala lake was @ 17 miles further up Wayah road, the mood seems to change when make that turn at the store – life begins to reflect a more biological longevity.

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The road is winding and provided me a sense of familiarity to the ride, Lake Tahoe.  The Tahoe ride and paddle remains high on my list and created a positive feeling to a pleasurable cruise. The drive to Tahoe on hwy-50 was uphill and the surrounding forest makes you feel a little more a part of this world.  Wayah rd is no hwy-50 – but, it is still uphill through the forest and the ride compelled me to compare.

As the hwy crests the ridge the Appalachian trail crosses, its a good place to stop and admire the beaten trail – I wondered if its many adventurers had any idea (or cared) where this paved road lead.

Prior to the trip I had ‘googled’ the area for relevant places of interest (eats, camping, etc), the list was limited but its always a big plus to find ‘land-food’ available. Restaurants on the water’s edge are a positive; at Nantahala the lakes-end restaurant is located on the NE shore (Topton, NC), great!  In addition a small cafe is found walking distance above the public boat ramp – the Wayah Cafe, I took the weight off my feet at each – just because I could.

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(GPS – 16000 Wayah rd, Aquone, NC)

In reviewing ‘google-earth’ (its improved) for lake objectives and shorelines – primitive camping  places seemed limited.  A one night and a two day paddle of the lake could fulfill my ‘headwaters’ mission, so “Lil bessie (RV) was my vehicle of choice – it didn’t hurt either that I had just attended an alumni function at RGNS (now a prep school) – along with the night at the fireman’s camp – a well rounded trip.

Made it to the ramp early on Sunday.

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Noticing the FD shirts, these ff’s from Lowndes County, Ga came to fish – I sensed someone was going to get wet along the way – all in fun.

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Somewhere since loafers-glory time did not seem to be a factor, there was plenty of it.  No hurry to get on the water – and all folks that I ran into, wanted to talk – so I let ’em.  Sue Ann dropped by with her dog Louise and ‘chewed the fat’ for a pretty good spell, good conversation with no time-frame or objective – front-porch stuff.

With only a partial Sunday remaining a good beginning would be to paddle as much of the North-end as possible – to the restaurant and have some ‘land-food.’ So I did.

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The homes that I did see are almost hidden behind the trees of the shore and do not detract from the natural feel of a lake in the Smokey Mountains.  Nantahala lake is not natural, it was created at the beginning of WWII to support the war effort, still its easy to sense that it has been here much longer.

I had ‘left my Werner‘ paddle at home and was paddling with a temporary (very cheap 8’) paddle picked up at Wal-mart in Franklin on the way in – (pricing them at REI and Diamond Brand I was simply too cheap to fork the money for a name brand paddle). I imagined the things that could go wrong with a paddle – and justified the skimpy purchase by having the minimal trip objective set as a ‘cheap-paddle’ review.  When the day was done the heavier shaft balanced out with a lighter ‘back-pocket.’

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Lakes End Marina and Restaurant

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Making a wide swing along the shoreline past the Restaurant, there were cabins for lodging nestled up in the corner with ez lake access.  The folks above found the ‘loafer-air’ relaxing too, no hurry, just watching the world go by.  Stopped and we enjoyed good conversation here too, of course the Suwannee river and the Mississippi even took their turns as various subjects came and went in the friendly setting.

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But land-food was my mission – and the Lakes End was open 8 to 4 on Sunday.  Dining is available inside and out – the porch area provided a great view of the lake along with this large Asian family in the process of renting a pontoon for a ride on the lake – families are as universal as the hearty laughs created.

For me cole-slaw is always an indicator of food quality, Lakes-End was southern (good) – the trout-nuggets were a bit over fried; but with that said ‘land-food’ is not an area of expertise for me (I ate it all) – ‘loafing’ is a bit closer to my heart.

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#1 – Public boat-ramp, #2 Lakes-end restaurant, #3 cove past the island, #4 Choga Boat ramp, #5 Marine/RV place cove, #6 – fresh-water falls, #7 incoming headwaters (class 1,2)

I did loaf long enough to create a paddle-plan on my ‘google map.  #1 was the public boat-ramp.  Where roughly the lake resembled the shape of a ‘T,’ my plan was to paddle (1-4) the ‘top of the “T” the first day, and then on day two set out as far up (or down as the map goes) to the headwaters as time would allow, then explore the coves on the way back (basic game-plan for me).

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The fries that came with the trout-nuggetts were laying hheavy as ‘ballast‘ in the mid-day heat, ahead was an island.

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I’ve paddled Traveller long enough to know how to comfortably lay-back with ‘feet-up,’ on the ‘leeward’ side of this island – and it was a thirty minute ‘loafer’s dream’ – pretty much about nothing.

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On the North end of the lake I did find a couple small coves, and that wonderful sound of fresh water falling – what a great sound to be welcomed with.  Sometimes the air passing through the trees leaves makes a similar noise, with no other sounds around I had to think twice about it – but it was the sound of water – pleasantville.

Those sounds of water on Nantahala lake were plentiful – especially on the headwaters end, but the streams were mostly difficult to see behind the heavy rhododendrons.  Touch the water and they were ez to visualize.

The only comfortable shoreline for lake access seemed to be on this western section of the ‘T’, only one place (other than the island) did it appear as though you might camp.  The lake was very clean, but unfortunately the few primitive camp sites showed signs of stupid people leaving their trash behind – just takes a few.

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At the western-most corner I wanted to explore the cove and wetland area in the trees, but the clouds began to gray and weather change became imminent – no big deal, when you’re paddlin, it is, what it is…

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The Choga access is another public landing – a little more to the Andrews side, it was one that I hadn’t noticed when researching.

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– and then ‘bottom fell out, the rain came – once again not a big deal, keep paddlin and its a ‘warm’ wet…. Not long ago I picked up a Wilderness systems kayak and moved most of my ’emergency-gear’ into it.  It ‘just so happened that I paddled traveller this trip, now using the tree line out of the bulk of the rain I was missing some of that ‘gear,’ especially the parka.

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the Sunday-skiers continued in the shower too

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I did make it back to the boat ramp, wet – and the rains continued unrelenting through the night and until 2 pm on day-2.

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 Fishermen came and went rain or shine (‘keep on ketchin’ above) giving me the impression tha walleye and bass are plentiful here – fishin (and ketchin) is good!

When the showers moved away it was too late to start to the headwaters, so why go anywhere?  With limited places on the lake for access, kids came and played – again, laughter filled the air.

plus some exuberance as ‘fishing experiences and techniques were shared with a new generation.

It didn’t take long to figure out that Day-2 was ‘a-wash,’ so there was plenty of time to walk to the Wayah Cafe and enjoy a brat while ‘passing the time.  Plenty of time to ponder too what my father was doing at this same age – probably about the same thing (loafing) as I, its just that I venture further than my back yard.

Sue, Louise, and others stopped through and chatted too, talkative folks.  Somewhere in it all a day-3 came to fruition, Day 2 was simply a day to linger at the boat ramp, always a place with that special kind of entertainment.

It is true that NO Camping is allowed at the public ramps, but it may have helped that under the rain any appearance of me ‘camping’ was kept at a very low profile in the rv.  Little Bessie was a perfect under the circumstances –

“Up on Cripple Creek, as she sends me
If I spring a leak, as she mends me
I don’t have to speak, as she defends me
A drunkard’s dream if I ever did see one.…”

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Another bonus was having my ‘standard’ cup of coffee in the mornings.  Day 3! on the water, headwater bound at 7am – rain or shine.

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 a ‘Duffy 18’

Along the way I explored the large cove that Nantahala Lake Marine and RV  were situated – their lake access was not apparent so I left unsure of the exact location – but its a nice cove for paddling. On that note many of the docks had kayaks and canoes sitting about, indicating the quality of the place for paddlin.

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‘This‘ is what I came for.  Immersed amidst only natural sound as I paddled Southward towards the headwaters – no others but that of this cheap paddle slicing gently through the placid water…..

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it was also the perfect stillness which reminded me of that story that was never meant to be repeated.

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But thats what paddlin intails; absorbing, reminiscing, – and if you’re lucky the ever present sounds of water coloring the thoughts of your mind. Cool vapor on the water usually indicated another ‘fresh’ water stream entering the headwaters yet to come.

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I paddled until lunch (5 hours) and as far as possible up the Nantahala’s headwater – until the rain-swollen creek held my efforts in check.  It’s kinda like half-time, the place for dwelling (and/or calibrating) before turning to explore the route back.

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I dislike ‘back-tracking,’ but when paddling a different shoreline happens in reverse….

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I did find a couple fish-camp’s to stop and stretch, for the most part of this entire lake there were no ‘beaches’ – just a wilderness shoreline with limited and mostly steep access.

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Along the way I counted at least 14 incoming creeks that supplied the Nantahala (and those white-water rafters) its fluids.

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Back out into the wide-open spaces

rope swings that remind me of cut-off blue jeans and those ‘dated’ swim-suits.

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homes and civilization

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as far as wildlife goes there were the normal kingfishers, plus the hollow’ sounds of a wood-pecker pounding through the forest; and mallards.

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then at the end of the day, I found a ‘swan’ on the boat ramp dock

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niccccceeeee…..

Nantahala lake is a great place to visit and paddle.  The water is awesome and feels great! – but tough to find a convenient place to swim unless you rent a lodge or travel like a pirate (incognito).

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Post 1 of 3

“LAST CALL”

(high water ahead)

Fargo, Georgia to the Gulf – at Suwannee, Fla

221 river miles

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The Suwannee River begins it’s journey as still marsh-water within the Okefenokee Swamp of Georgia, then a creek develops into a full-blown river as it crosses two states on its journey of life to the Gulf.  The rivers distance from the swamps of Georgia to the Gulf of Mexico at the small town of Suwannee, Fl is about 240 miles (Suwannee Mileage).

A leisurely paddle of the distance in a kayak or canoe, from Fargo Ga; takes about ten days.

Several friends; Carl, Gordy, Richard and I, met-up at the closest hotel – just as we had for last years paddle. This was the third year for Gordy and I while Carl/Richard have stroked two (canoe/yak) trips to the Gulf.

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The shuttle would take us to our ‘put-in’ at Fargo Ga (from the Outpost within the music park) and schedule to pick us up in Suwannee,Fla 11 days later…..

and we were on the river well before ten in Fargo, Ga.

There is little we can do about it, but one thing to watch when paddling the Suwannee is the water gauge reading at White Springs.  The recommended paddle level is a reading of over 52 feet, for our paddle this year it was ‘holding strong’  at 60 feet.  After paddling the distance two years ago with a reading of 50 feet! I was eager to learn the difference this volume of ten feet would make; maybe I could retrieve some ‘rewards’ from the first trek’s vigor.

We were quick to find a very positive difference….

The 60′ reading provided a solid base of flow for the entire length of the river to the Gulf – I can now highly recommend paddling the river at this level.

It is true – you will miss some of the characteristic roots and relics of the setting with the higher level, many of the smaller shoals will be hidden, and some of the springs of the river could be closed from an influx of those tea-colored tannic waters of the Suwannee (gators can get into the springs too).  But as far as paddling; the higher waters provided a welcomed ‘ease’ to any paddling efforts.  Twenty-plus mile days are with simple effort, the halfway point and any ‘benchmarks’ are easily attained.  I could relate a similar feeling to the ‘free ride’ offered by the Current river.

Paddling ‘with current’ over distance allows a simple education of how currents/flow/eddy’s effect the maneuvering of your vessel.  Distance with a solid (class 1,2) flow should be a requirement for all paddlers as an introduction to ‘flat-water’ basics.  Current includes ‘decision-making’ along the way – where ‘doing nothing’ can also be an option.

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It is also possible to notice, even feel how the shape and depth of a river affects the flow and gravity of your paddling.  Prior to Big Shoals the water slowed, you can feel the depth (gator holes) you can hear and slip up on wildlife, and you can ride her to the roar of the shoals in the distance….

Paddlers should be noticing these things (Why else are we there?) along with all the other neat things about the cycles of life. I respect the many methods/types/and variables within the paddling society – ‘flatwater’ certainly has its benefits.

One of the better aspects about the time spent paddling for me; is that the setting is one of having a single responsibility – and that is to nature itself…..

Our presence on this date did little to deter the peace and beauty of the area.

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The higher waters provided an avenue to many normally out of reach points of interest (a Ga fish camp).

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There is little more that I can add about the Suwannee not already noted within my previous trip-reports, so my only expectations of report – is to condense this particular ten-day Georgia to Gulf (“last-call”) river trip to the best of my abilities. Please check-out my previous trip reports on the Suwannee for more of this depth (kayaking the Suwannee (8 posts) and paddling the Suwannee (4 posts)).

Where the kayak provided comfort, this year’s higher water was allowing more time to enjoy the setting. Combining the two it was possible to ‘play with the flow’ a little. The soft current and gentle “zigs and zags” of the channel meshed becoming opportunities with ample time to skirt under and drift though otherwise obstructed routes.  The depth easily forgave any errors of choice.  My Wilderness yak (kryptic) only rubbed one cypress knot and I never had to back out of a chosen ‘short-cut’ – it was a good day on the water.

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Our benchmark for the day was to the hwy-6 bridge in Fla (195mm), but not wanting to camp under a bridge we located an early afternoon campsite a couple miles above the bridge (200mm).  Two years prior at the lower 50′ level, Gordy and I had worked hard to make 18-miles on a full day over this section, today – we had comfortably eased across more than 21 miles with little-to-no effort, this must be the ‘reward!’

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The campsite (river-right) was just as perfect as the day had been. Owls too.

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DAY TWO – Highway-6 to Big Shoals

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MRE and Coffee, then on the river before 8:30.  No doubt those that spend some time on the river go down – and rise with the sun – it just works out that way.

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There had been kingfishers, herons and woodpecker’s throughout the day – and once again the Suwannee’s owls charmed each other through the night. Wdddddddllllllloooo, wddddddllllll,ooo!

On this our second day, Gordy and I were savoring the Cadillac ‘ride’ towards Big Shoals – Carl and Richard were somewhere a few miles back finding their own pace.  They wanted it that way and not being one for the ‘group thing’ (takes my mind off why I’m there) the independence allowed each of us to find our own reasons within the setting.

Benchmark for this day would be the campsite on the Big Shoals portage trail (175mm) – 25 miles downriver.

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Gordy and I kinda fell into a two-boat ‘group’ over the same terrain that we had previously rambled – the flow was holding strong 4 days now.  Normally you could figure a paddle rate of a leisurely 2.5 to 3 mph; we were finding this rate more to the tune of 3.5 to 4 mph, just move your arms.  After working through lower water and tougher times, we appreciated it.

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This first section in Florida narrows and shoots past fishermen and boaters of the area.  Just past ‘limp-dick’ bend (aerial 188mm) is Cone Bridge landing (I didn’t name it either). With our @25 mile target for the day, this was our halfway ‘lunch’ point.  We had also stowed a kayak ‘dollie’ for the 1000′ portage of Big Shoals in the bushes here a few days earlier – so Cone Bridge also became a ‘pickup’ point.

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‘Big-Shoals’ is Florida’s only natural class III rapid. A couple years back the reading at White Springs was at 52′, ‘picking a line’ through was possible – on this date it was holding strong at 60′, not I.  Big Shoals is a portage point and campsite (with fire pit), depending on your vessel – the wheels help alot and can be dropped off in a couple days at our parked vehicles.

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Carl and Richard ambled in a couple hours after Gordy and I.  The campsite was simple, clean, and a perfect setting….

Big Shoals – @60′

– for the rumble of the river alongside.

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DAY 3 – Big Shoals (175mm) to Woods Ferry river camp (159mm)

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The entertainment for the next morning was getting back into the river.  As the tannic (leaves-colored) water churns over the shoals it bubbles and foams.  With the power and increased flow of the river on this only amplified the amount of bubbles – as a firefighter it reminded me alot of the old ‘high-expansion’ protein based foams we once used.

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Eager to begin this day, brothers Carl and Richard became ‘one-with-the-river‘ early with their spectacular ‘launches.’  Gordy and I watched – then used the lessons to make much smoother entry’s ourselves; being last is not always a bad thing.

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The two sets of shoals before White Springs and the hwy-41 bridge were unapparent under the high water.

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Below White Springs, in the 1800′s this was a wooden ‘spring-house,’ then rebuilt at a later date – more history on this link.

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With the help of the water a very simple paddle rate was developing, stopping along the way became more of a necessity than an option.  I-75 came and went, unlike the year when Gordy and I saw it as a ‘waterfall‘ in a heavy Fla downpour…

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When the water level is ‘right’ (52-56) this is a great section between White Springs and Woods Ferry of ‘playful’ curves and currents.  At this level and with the natural obstacles of the channel, ‘boils’ become more pronounced. Like on the Mississippi and at a lesser degree – these ‘suck-pockets‘ affect your direction of travel. No big deal, it’s just water under you.

This section of river bears the scars of high summer-use, two day one night ‘runs’ at the river, while also used as float events by local charities as ‘fund-raisers.

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We found high water at Woods Ferry (159mm), up the deck.  This left us to stow our kayaks on the walk with others (Holton Creek paddler).

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The screened platforms of the available river camps are always a welcome sight, thanks Suwannee Wilderness folks.

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“feet-up”

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DAY 4 – Woods Ferry (159mm) to Holton Creek river camp (140mm)

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On the river just after 8am.  It is my belief that the earlier you get on the river – natural beauty has greater opportunity to find you.

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At any time if one of us wanted to ‘move-on,’ we could – and did. In Colorado I learned the ‘Western rules ‘ of paddlin stressed independence.  A group of independent souls, I like that.

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This is the Holton Creek section, one of distinct earthly beauty – the shores are little different today than 30,000 years ago…

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Suwannee Springs is an interesting stop – from the late 1800’s to the 1920’s the waters were thought to heal ailments from gout to marital problems, Gordy and I joked bout the marital problems cure (a drowning was included).

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And at the 1/3 mark of our trip the outfitters, our vehicles (for restock), and the Music Park for some land-food at the Cafe; a big ole jucy burger served by ‘Raven.’ Gordy made the call once again to return to civilization, work had summoned him on that little black lightning-bolt to the world.

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– so after that burger this beverage summoned me too.  Back on the river, headed to the Gulf.

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It helps to have an objective.  Whether paddling to the headwaters or whatever angle your boat is pointed – direction is your animal and you are the Captain… Choose from one of the factors that day, put your head in that direction (and plan to turn those phones ‘off’) when paddlin…..

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The tree root above was awesome, the sand below the old oak had completely washed away – leaving the great tree suspended above the ground on its roots.  The picture was taken in hindsight, and doesent do it justice.  Ok, you know where its at.

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Normally a large sandy beach, the Holton Creek walk stood knee-deep.

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Entertainment was down at the Yacht-Club…

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The two from Woods Ferry ambled in, a couple more adventurers doing the river in ‘their own way.’  I think the father-son group said it was eighteen days since they left the Okefenokee Swamp, headed for the Gulf.  Seems all that we met this trip were eager to tell their story; a ‘snow-bird’ from Bradenton this guy was giving it his best-shot and had all kinds of ‘bad-luck.’ Good or bad, some folks have it all.

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And my story for the night, was that my cabin #1 (dubbed ‘animal house’) had a squirrel trapped in the attic for the night, try sleeping through that one!  Where it’s not unlikely that animals might amble through the camp (armadillo, racoons, turkey, etc.) during the night, it’s just not a normal event within a river camp structure.  This situation was a simple effort of maintenance to vent the structure making it more comfortable for visitors – holes had been drilled for simple attic vents.  I suppose there was a lapse of time when this critter found his way into one of the holes.  The vents were screened leaving the critter inside.

I didn’t sleep well, finally grabbed my flashlight at 4 am and after assessing the problem (along with a few impatient words and tripping over the work ladder) poked out a vent-screen creating an escape route for the critter – he hadn’t taken to it by sun-up.

But I took to mine, the river.  – and I was on it early.

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Suwannee River Mileage/trip info

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The next days, (5-8) to Gornto Springs Park

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Post 2 of 3 (Days 5 thru 8)

“LAST CALL”

(riding high water)

Fargo, Georgia to the Gulf – at Suwannee, Fla

221 river miles

Day 5, Holton Creek (140mm) to Dowling Park River Camp (113mm)

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Woods Ferry through Holton Creek is one of the more interesting sections of the Suwannee; over the past 12 or 15 thousand years the river has cut its niche through the visible limestone bedrock – after that the shores widen then soften towards Interstate-10 and the Dowling Park area.

The floor of the 16×16 elevated and screened room of the river camps the past two nights seems harder to get up from than sleeping on the ground; not sure the reason.  True, my rest at Holton Creek was compounded by that ‘ding-dong’ squirrel trapped in the attic – had me up and paddling early.

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The river-camp folks have been real good about letting us divide up using two platforms (2 per platform) I’m sure with more traffic it would be different. But for more than the squirrel reason I was glad to be on the water early absorbing the surrounding ambiance.

With other folks, ‘groups’ just seem naturally slower to get moving (hence the ‘”bacshortly” moniker), so once again I quietly slid off the shore like a 14′ gator to collect a few of those placid moments that only the mornings can provide.

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I have found that if you are out there early…

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you might find families camping, even fishing together along the banks,

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you can find stairs leading into the mirror-like water…. This was a high-water period (60′ at White Springs) and after paddling it sever times before it was interesting to see how folks had ‘fared’ with their dock/deck building theories…. some better than others

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Prior to Gibson pk, I paddled over the normally high walkway of Shelley Run boil, it was hidden under the tannic water

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Along the way there are rope swings dangling from grand old oaks, always swaying my thoughts to cut-off blue jeans and those small but dated bathing suits….

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The Suwannee river State Park encompasses the history of a cemetery along with a Civil War earthen embankment used to protect the railroad during that conflict..

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After the historical railroad crossing and old hwy-41 the river ‘opens-up’ and begins to slow as it ‘flattens.’ Under normal conditions a shoal is present to paddle through – with this high water, it’s pretty much invisible.

This is the first area where you start to feel a longer and slower river, for the most part its just a matter of keeping the mind busy as the arms continue without thought.  With a fleeting nights sleep the night before I pretty much stayed awake by paddling.

Having a 200# sturgeon surface just out of paddle reach will wake you up too – big/ugly and teeth! It was just below Holton Creek and in the stillness of the morning when it rolled within paddle length.  The sighting surprised me being this far upriver, but with the high-water I understood…

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The 27 mile stretch between the Holton Creek and Dowling Park river camps leaves little time for lingering, but a quick MRE fits in just fine.

The other paddlers and I share the leeway to ‘paddle-on’ at any given moment, when anyone suggested a ‘change-of-plans’ or idea for the day the answer was always the same; “Its your trip, go for it!”

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My gyro seems to be intrinsically set at ‘keep the paddle moving,’ I really like any time on the water.  While on the Mississippi I hated to go to sleep each night, just wanted to soak up every ‘dab’ of  the experience that I could.  Now, on the Suwannee once again – I was really appreciating the sound flow of the higher waters.  ‘Play’ in the mornings, a lazy drift in the afternoons (with the paddle moving), and early camps.

It also helps to know a little of the area’s history, or simply noticing any changes from previous paddles, this helps to enlighten as the time ‘flies-by.’ I also had time to figure a little about my new phone – liking the weather and GPS capabilities of it (esp the ‘airplane-mode’).

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After the ‘broad’ feel of this section the past two years, I was surprised to arrive at the Dowling Park River Camp before 3pm.  It was nice to be welcomed into the area with the church-bells from the nearby Advent Church facility. Jeff was the ‘host‘ – a BMW rider spending time as a host between travels. Volunteers, thanks for what you folks do.

The Brothers were more relaxed and enjoying their float/paddle kinda pace, I enjoyed a relaxing afternoon too – hot shower, feet-up; recovering from that sleepless ‘squirrel in the attic’ night.   Carl/Richard arrived about 6pm.

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DAY 6 – Dowling Park (113mm) to Adams Tract river camp (85mm)

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Time to move on from Dowling Park river camp.  The place has always been hospitable, a good feel to it – same this visit.  Two options for the day; Peacock Slough, or Adams Tract 10 miles further…….

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Once the morning fog burns off its about running the shade line… more rope swings

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More decks, Vacation Rental by Owner (#134667)

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and Decks taken over by vines

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Steel decks with buzzards…

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The Blue bridge of hwy 51

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just after the ‘blue bridge’ is Bathtub Springs – abit under water now, it struggles to hold the Suwannee back with its clear head-water.

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Then on down the way and a little past Peacock Slough the old RR trestle (Drew Bridge) remains tall and proud after so many years.  Normally there are several shoals in this area too – but with this high water, only the memories are present.

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along the shoreline I spot a relic in the woods, its only occupant a turkey strolls away

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And then Adams Tract River camp.  I remember two years ago struggling at the end of a long paddle day to pull traveller (my boat) up the seemingly endless steps.  Today I’m a bit fresher – and the stairs a bit less intimidating..

2011

The stay is none the less rewarding, for some reason it was one of those ‘little circles’ that I wanted to close.

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2013

I liked Adams tract and once again and had the whole camp to myself (Carl/Richard stopped at Peacock Slough).  A few days earlier I had found a fishing rod along the flooded river – cleaned it up and did some fishing at the river (fishing, not catching).  A rain came through the night providing a fine nights rest.

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last years paddle

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DAY 7 – Adams Tract river camp (85mm) to Ivy Park, Branford (76mm)

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mount up

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calibration point 2011

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Troy Springs underwater, neat to paddle over the deck and to the stairs

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Little River Springs underwater – this was also pretty cool as the front 1/3 of was still clear towards the ‘head.’  The spring water had covered the walks, trash cans, etc under 7 feet of clear water – is was like and underwater movie set…

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In nearing Branford I encountered the first group of young folks paddling canoes, they had departed Fargo 2.5 weeks earlier.  Over the recent years I have come across a number of groups on the Suwannee (boys/girls) sorting out their worlds with the basic necessities.  You have to admire the counselors (and the Suwannee for the setting it provides), way to go Outward Bound and Boy’s Club!

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I made Branford a half a day ahead of Carl/Richard, just in time for the ballast-buffett at the hometown restaurant.  ‘Land-food’ and Ivy Park – all in short walking distance.

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The campsite at the edge of the park is a nice place to settle, once Carl/Richard arrived we set up tents and watched the locals cruise the park with their pickup trucks….

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DAY 8 – Branford (76mm) to Gornto Springs Park (56mm)

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The real flatwater, earlinessssssss….

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windless, and right down the middle of glass-like water

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Cow pastures above and along Branford.  With no industries along the Suwannee, nitrogen runoff has been the main topic of conversation when speaking water quality.  Its all fresh water and its a high quality of moving water. On this trip and with the higher flow/level of water – there were areas of unnatural debris.  Small debris pockets against docks, along the shores – plastic bottles has to top the list, even a floating TV.

At a lower water level the difference in with the water clarity of the Sante Fe can be stark – and inviting, a fine place to jump in !

It’s also not at all unusual to find the confluence of the Santa Fe river packed with partakers and party boats on the weekends – because of the high-water on this date it was eerily deserted for our lunch break.  If you have time there is camping/land-food/bar a mile up river – Ellie Rays.  On a weekday or distance paddle – it might just be worth the short paddle (the beverage is cold and the glass is icy).

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‘not large enough for a mosquito’ place, LP

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The Mona and Mona II, shady rest years…

.At the Hwy 340 bridge ramp is the Rock Bluff Store

– under new ownership but they have a little grill serving hamburgers, etc.  Nice folks, you might even find a cold beverage there….. (this might help if you plan on staying at the Gornto Springs Park a mile down the way)…

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Ferns on the dock

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Presidential duck in the tree.. just before Gornto.

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Gornto Springs Park, the ‘belly-button’ of the Suwannee; be prepared to be entertained….

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the rebel yell is kinda like the password, once that comes out – they’ll come put their arms around you!

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 and you’ll blend right in

(results of stay)

Gornto Start, next days 9 – 11 to the Gulf

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Suwannee River Mileage info

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Post 3 of 3 (Days 5 thru 11 )

“LAST CALL”

(high-water paddle)

Fargo, Georgia to the Gulf – at Suwannee, Fla

221 river miles

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DAY 9 – Gornto Springs (56mm) to Fanning Springs (36mm)

“The belly-button of the Suwannee”

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Well,….. after ‘blending in’ for an evening at Port Gornto (always a zoo) my head hurt… “the sailors emptied the liquor hold last night” was my second thought as I rolled to my knees (my head hurt was the first), then prepared my gear for the days voyage.

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In some sort of short, mechanical and hazy order I slid out into the middle of the river ahead of brothers Carl/Richard, head in the fog and “feet up”…… glad I had a V8!

In any civilized society, a misfit; here and now – well, its nice that it really doesent matter.

This was the start to a Suwannee day in time, these days don’t pass often – probably for this very reason.   I was indeed relaxed as my head would let me be, calibrated, and once again sitting atop the river’s sweet morning breath.  The sturgeon that surfaced just after Holden Creek kept me from dozing completely, not like they eat swimmers or anything – I just didn’t want to wake up swimming .

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Carl and Richard eased up through the fog 30 or so minutes later, and from there we paddled calm waters three-wide for several miles down the center of the river.

I think the kids carrying Spanish moss (‘red-bugs’) under their arms and in their britches (promoted by their parents) to the fire at Gornto held edge with most conversation, beating out the guy with a ‘twitch,’ a beer, and a doberman (the dog was nonthreatening).

We laugh, call it a ‘good time’ and paddle on.

It’s only fitting that on this morning we were surrounded by a heavy dew/fog blend, like a big old fuzz ball holding the sun at-bay.  As far as the weather has been for us – other than a shower one night; the nights have been perfectly clear April mediocrity; our tents have been set each night without a ‘fly leaving us to stare at the stars while listening to the owls along the river, wdllooooo..

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There are always ideas for decks to ponder

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A few miles away Hart Springs was also under-water, but still possible to paddle into the public area – which was closed for activities.

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The Suwannee itself felt much wider than of the mornings past

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laziness was out in the middle, interest was along the shore – and all was calm.  On my last two paddles through this area it was either battling the wind or hoards of boats/doggone people on the weekend.  This was the calmest pass that I have made through here.

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We continued paddling calm waters for 22 miles to Fanning Springs State Park, my camera was giving me some issues too – so it was put up more than used- which I was ok with (‘last call’).  When nearing Fanning Springs there is a long stretch before the park that you hear the highway (and hear the traffic) – paddling through here always seems looong; it was no different on this day.

We made the park in the afternoon just before the second group of ‘Boys Club’ kids (this younger group from Pa.) – well behaved and sharing the same setting.  The springs here have good magnitude and were open for swimming (no hot showers available).  I took my bio soap – and it felt good to wash the Gornto off.

The Lighthouse seafood restaurant sits just across the road, “ballast.’ It was all the ballast we needed to settle in for the night; after the Gornto night – we each had water with our meals (2nd reason – hydration for the miles ahead).

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DAY 10 – Fanning Springs (36mm) to Fowlers Bluff (14mm)

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After a good nights sleep we gathered fresh coffee from the nearby convenience store, and were on the river early once again.  Carl and Richard would bring up the rear this time – Manatee Springs was the half-way point to Fowlers Bluff.. so that was our direction/meeting point for lunch.

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Its an ‘open’ water kinda setting, wide with the thick smell of the Gulf in the air.

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gators too – just big lizards with teeth….

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Manatee must be one of the larger springs because even with high tannic waters of the swollen Suwannee the clear stream still managed to push and define its way into the river….

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On previous years we have seen manatee nearby – the only thing ‘ambling’ around today was Richard. The park was quiet leaving us to miss the ‘entertainment‘ of our last visit.

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Not sure how the higher waters affect the manatee – but after seeing more than 14 last year, we didn’t notice any this year… The spring-head has a nice little concession stand (cold food) and bathrooms (cold-water) available.  Camping is available too – but the distance from the landing to the camp sites makes it less desirable when ‘paddling thru.’

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back out on the Suwannee

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This section begins to ‘open-up’ towards the Gulf, once past Fowlers Bluff – the last 10 miles are pure paddle – no shore to stand on.

But Fowlers Bluff is a great stop along the way. Missy (owner) of the Treasure Camp really lays out the hospitality.  The food is good and the setting is certainly the best to begin the ‘wind-down’ after a 210-mile paddle.

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For 7 bucks you can sleep outside on a their mowed yard (take some yard fogger for the no-see-ums), if you make it though – you just have to stop and appreciate the paddle that is now behind you. Real good folks.

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and we returned to adult beverages for our meal….

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DAY 11 – Fowlers Bluff (14mm) to Suwannee, Fl – The Gulf

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If it wasn’t the 10 days that had us ready to ‘bail,’ the ‘no-see-ums’ may have provided the reason…

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The section from Fowlers Bluff to Suwannee provides few places to step out and stretch – so be prepared to paddle it in one sitting.  Knowing the section can provide some variable (tide and wind) challenges and that we had the shuttle coming early – we left the restaurant before they opened (eight am for breakfast).  After a shorter paddle than anticipated from Fowlers Bluff (3.5 hours) we arrived at Suwannee, Fl – on time, yet hungry for lunch.  This place is a really neat little fishing town at the dead-end of hwy 349.

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Only one restaurant was open – 2 miles away – a local (and legally blind) gentleman gave us a ride on his cart, while two local fishermen gave us a ride back to the camp in their pickup….

The shuttle arrived on time and we were sitting back at the Music Park and Outpost and our vehicles before 5 pm, now what?

Just so happened the Wannee festival was going on – so I hung around and soaked up some of the entertainment….

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Suwannee River Mileage/trip info